No dish exemplifies the glories of classic French cuisine more than “Lièvre à la Royale.” But since this rendition of wild hare in a rich sauce requires two days of painstaking de-boning, marinating, stuffing and braising, most modern chefs do not offer the incomparably delicious dish. Chef Eric Sapet of La Petite Maison de Cucuron in southern France’s Luberon region takes a different tack. He goes “old school” and presents not one, but two marvelous versions of “Lièvre à la Royale.”
