“I’d rather drink a bourgogne rouge from old vines than a grand cru from vines on their fourth leaf..”
–Becky Wasserman-Hone, Burgundy wine exporter
“Never despise the vin ordinaire. It affects the lives of infinitely more people than do the grands clos, and it can be very good…. Do not become a wine snob—which is a thing quite different from a connoisseur.”
–J. M. Scott, on Burgundy in “Vineyards of France”
I first visited Burgundy and began drinking its wines with great pleasure in the early 1990’s. Since then Burgundy experienced enormous changes. New generations of winegrowers, organic and biodynamic vineyard methods, a warming climate, growing global demand, and emerging technology and social media have reshaped the wines and perceptions of Burgundy. But as a die-hard lover of the wines and the place, the most troubling change is the stereotyping of Burgundy wines as too complicated and expensive. “Burgundy Calling” will show a different, more nuanced reality while giving useful tips on buying delicious, quality wines at affordable prices.
The book tells stories of underappreciated vineyards, memorable restaurants, fun wine bars, hardworking winegrowers and the diverse personalities and places that make Burgundy so distinctive and worthwhile. Instead of focusing on rare, expensive wines, “Burgundy Calling” mines the best of régionale wines that provide the broad foundation of Burgundy’s pyramid of vineyards. A dedicated grower with old vines in a régionale site can work magic even in difficult vintages.
The journey in “Burgundy Calling” begins in Paris before heading to Joigny, Auxerre, Tonnerre, Chablis, and Vézelay, the homes of Burgundy’s northern most vineyards. Then it’s on to visits with growers and vineyards in Dijon, the famed Côte d’Or, and the Hautes-Côtes. The journey continues in the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnaise before returning to northward for more fun in Paris.
But now for me, it’s back to work to writing “Burgundy Calling.” Stay tuned for more news. Cheers!
