{"id":1532,"date":"2017-07-02T12:14:53","date_gmt":"2017-07-02T16:14:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.daveswinecellar.com\/?p=1532"},"modified":"2020-04-13T09:53:29","modified_gmt":"2020-04-13T13:53:29","slug":"rock-and-roll-survives-with-chef-fred-menager-at-burgundys-la-ferme-de-la-ruchotte","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/2017\/07\/02\/rock-and-roll-survives-with-chef-fred-menager-at-burgundys-la-ferme-de-la-ruchotte\/","title":{"rendered":"Rock and Roll Survives With Chef Fred M\u00e9nager, Poultry Breeder Extraordinaire At La Ferme de la Ruchotte"},"content":{"rendered":"

Growing up in the 70’s and 80’s in Burgundy’s M\u00e2con region, Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric M\u00e9nage<\/span><\/span>r dreamed of one day ripping guitar solos in a rock and roll band. His family had more immediate ideas.<\/p>\n


\nHe began the long, hard quest to being a chef in France by working in Paris and at Restaurant Alain Chapel (with a Michelin-three star rating). Eventually M\u00e9nage<\/span><\/span>r became executive chef at Castel de Tr\u00e8s Girard, a respected gastronomic restaurant in Morey-Saint-Denis, Burgundy.\u00a0 But as a rocker at heart with an urge for creative independence,<\/span> M\u00e9nage<\/span><\/span>r made a life changing decision to leave the restaurant in 2002.<\/p>\n

He and his wife, Eva, took a major risk by buying La Ferme de la Ruchotte, a farm where M\u00e9nager<\/span><\/span> could chart his own unique path as a poultry breeder and part-time chef. Fifteen years later M\u00e9nager has emerged as a respected\u00a0 champion of the “farm to plate” model not only in Burgundy, but around France and internationally. And his passion for heavy metal, hard rock, popular and classical music flourishes stronger than ever.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

One of La Ferme de la Ruchotte’s free-range “ancient race” birds. Photo Credit: Juliette Ranck<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/span>The<\/span><\/span> 12.5 acre La Ferme de la Ruchotte <\/a><\/strong>lies at the end of a serpentine road on top of a hill above the village of Bligny-sur-Ouche, 25 kilometers from Beaune. The farm provides a free-range paradise for <\/span><\/span>M\u00e9nage<\/span><\/span>r’s passion and specialty—chickens, coqs vierges<\/em>, and poulardes<\/em> descended from colorful, ancient French lines such as the<\/p>\n

Gaulloise Dor\u00e9<\/span><\/span>e, Barbezieux, Le Mans, La Fl\u00e8che, and Coucou de Rennes. He also raises rare, ancient breeds of turkeys, guinea fowl, and ducks—over 2,000 poultry in all—along with ten rugged Solognot sheep and twenty black Gascon pigs. One llama, an ostrich, a big black dog and various felines keep them all company. For good measure, M\u00e9nager tends an extensive potager<\/em> garden with greens, carrots, leeks, radishes, celery, beets, peppers….you name it. He also grows <\/span><\/span>diverse fruits.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Everything thrives in the farm’s self-contained, organic environment which is certified by the bright green and white “AB”—Agriculture Biologique—<\/em>sign at the entrance. Vegetables and fruits grow without synthetic chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides. Animals breed and mature without synthetic antibiotics and genetically modified methods. M\u00e9nager <\/span><\/span>sees a critical rapport between a healthy, uncontaminated farm and high quality poultry.\"AB<\/p>\n

“Organic farming guarantees a healthy diet to the animals and a life in the best conditions,” he says. “The breeding time is also longer, and the slaughter is done according to very precise criteria. Ultimately the product is healthier and therefore better for the consumer.”<\/p>\n

“A chicken of quality must have firm and muscular flesh, be flavorful and properly fattened,”\u00a0M\u00e9nager<\/span><\/span> adds. “The skin must be fine and well oiled.”<\/p>\n

\"la
A ceramic bird in the dining room.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants around Burgundy covet M\u00e9nager’s tasty bounty, but he also sells to <\/span><\/span>more casual, but excellent culinary destinations such as Caves Madelaine Beaune<\/a><\/strong>. Individual customers order poultry for holidays and special occasions. And on Saturdays and Sundays only, M\u00e9nager and Eva welcome guests by reservation into their home for a lunchtime meal unlike any other.<\/p>\n

On a Sunday in May, Eva greets guests warmly into the cheerfully decorated farmhouse dining room. Inviting aromas fill the snug room while Fred works in the well appointed professional kitchen just through an open doorway. A chalkboard near the fire place features the fixed menu which this day offers Poule en Gel\u00e9<\/span><\/span>e <\/em>with new Spring greens, Coq au Vin<\/em> with Spring vegetables, cheese, and a dessert of chocolate ice cream, gingerbread and gaufrett<\/em>e<\/em>, a wafer thin, slightly sweet cone.<\/p>\n

Homemade, crusty bread and silky pork rillettes<\/em> await guests who sit at either a large communal table or several smaller tables. My wife and I sat at the communal table next to a couple of American restaurant owners and sommeliers on one side. On our other side sat organic\/biodynamic winegrower Yann Durieux with his wife and charming, young daughter. The affable Durieux worked and trained with some of Burgundy’s leading “bio” wine producers. His own domaine, Recrue des Sens, has a rapidly growing reputation for producing deliciously pure and fresh Hautes-C\u00f4tes de Nuits<\/b> wines. Dureiux makes wines “naturally” with little intervention and no added sulfites.<\/p>\n

\"la
Fred M\u00e9nager reveals a bit of his hard rock inspired tattoos otherwise concealed by the white chef’s jacket. Another tattoo–in vivid green, of course—refers to his “100% Organic” commitment. Photo Credit: Juliette Ranck<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Back in the kitchen M\u00e9nager<\/span><\/span> plates the first course as the sounds of AC\/DC’s hard rock anthems play at modest volume. The chef is a picture of concentration. The music helps keep him focused and inspired.<\/p>\n

“Music remains indispensable and inseparable in my life,’ says\u00a0M\u00e9nager<\/span><\/span> who recalls Django Reinhardt’s distinctive, unforgettable guitar playing in his childhood. “Then I took a slap listening to Led Zeppelin’s first album. Jimmy Page remains an incomparable genius. I also remain very impressed by Elvis’ incredible voice, and the unique Steven Tyler”<\/p>\n

Other favorites on his eclectic playlist include Serge Gainsbourg, Van Halen’s first album, Jimi Hendrix, Ozzy Osbourne, the Beatles, Bach, Mozart and Vivaldi.
\n<\/span><\/span>
\nBl<\/strong>ack Label Society <\/strong><\/a>lead man Zakk Wylde, a Bayonne, New Jersey native whom M\u00e9nager<\/span><\/span> has met twice, also sits atop the list. “A man of great kindness who has immense respect for his fans.” M\u00e9nager notes.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

He credits Chef Philippe Jousse<\/a><\/strong> at Restaurant Alain Chapel with teaching hard work, commitment and discipline as values essential for a chef to show similar respect for dinner guests.<\/p>\n

“At Restaurant Alain Chapel I learned that good food is not possible without good products,”\u00a0M\u00e9nager<\/span><\/span> recalls. “In the kitchen I learned camaraderie and the great techniques of French cooking. Philippe Jousse remains for me the greatest technician.”<\/p>\n

As the chef at Castel de Tr\u00e8s Girard, M\u00e9nager constantly searched for quality products to produce quality food. After starting to raise chickens as a hobby, a fellow poultry breeder introduced him to France’s “ancient races.”<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

“I raised, ate and discovered something exceptional. The chickens just turned my life upside down!” M\u00e9nager says.<\/p>\n

He and his wife took the plunge at La Ferme de la Ruchotte unsure of the economic viability of their “farm to plate” model. But they envisioned potential benefits, too.<\/p>\n

“We decided to reorient our lives to a more ethical ideal with more autonomy and independence,” he recalls. “I try to show my clients and guests that self-sufficiency is possible. You no longer have to depend on big agribusiness.”<\/p>\n

\"Coq
Coq au vin made from an “ancient race” chicken. Photo Credit: Kate DeSimone<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

By controlling the production channel from birth of the animals through slaughter, M\u00e9nager<\/span><\/span> maintains the genetic diversity that is critical to quality.<\/p>\n

“Year after year I have observed and tasted my animals. We now know how to make a great chicken, but work still remains to be done,” he says. “Genetic diversity remains the most important thing in order to maintain a livestock with a strong capacity to adapt to its environment.”<\/p>\n

At our Sunday lunch, the succulent Coq au Vin<\/em> and vegetables are a revelation. The bird’s firm, flavorful dark meat and rich sauce marry seamlessly. The fresh Spring vegetables cooked to perfection add savory accents. It is a delicious, hearty course where traditional simplicity allows sublime ingredients to hold center stage.<\/p>\n

\"The
The delicious 2015 Domaine Rougeot Bourgogne rouge made with whole grape clusters and minimal sulfites.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On the wine list, M\u00e9nager<\/span><\/span> offers bottles made primarily from organically cultivated grapes. Well known producers such Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Domaine Dujac jump out.\u00a0 But lesser known yet terrific producers such as Yann Durieux at Recrue des Sens<\/a><\/strong> and Marc Rougeot at Domaine Rougeot P\u00e8re & Fils<\/a><\/strong> in Meursault also catch the eye.<\/p>\n

“Wine is very important for us. It is in our genes and is an integral part of our Burgundy culture,”\u00a0M\u00e9nager says. “I love wines that tell a story about the history of Burgundy terroir<\/em> and the work of soils. Plus many of our wines come from growers who have become friends and who love what we do here. So there is coherence in our collaboration.”<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

As the Sunday meal draws to a close, sated guests linger under La Ferme de la Ruchotte’s spell. We are all happy savoring the pleasure of this memorable culinary moment.<\/p>\n

“Being able to feed our guests with animals we saw born and that we cook as best we can is without doubt my best achievement,” M\u00e9nager says. <\/span><\/span>“I love to live on farm with the people who work here and share great moments of happiness like the birth of animals. Slaughtering the animals is not easy, you know, but I live this as a sacrifice.”<\/p>\n

“I like to make a kitchen that puts forward my products. As a cook, I am only a courier,” he adds.”The cook should fade in front of an animal that by his sacrifice will feed customers. Great products do not need much. The stars should be the product and the peasant.”<\/p>\n

Rock on, Monsieur!<\/p>\n

“Hey there, all you middle men,
\nThrow away your fancy clothes.
\nAnd while you’re out there sittin’ on a fence,
\nGet off your ass and come down here.
\n‘Cause rock ‘n’ roll ain’t no riddle man
\nTo me it makes good, good sense.
\n
\nRock ‘N’ Roll Ain’t Noise Pollution<\/span> by AC\/DC<\/p>\n

(Photo Credit to Juliette Ranck <\/a>for portrait of Fred M\u00e9nager.)<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Growing up in the 70’s and 80’s in Burgundy’s M\u00e2con region, Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric M\u00e9nager dreamed of one day ripping guitar solos in a rock and roll band. His family had more immediate ideas.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1535,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[73,108,79,71,179,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1532","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-burgundy","category-burgundy-wine","category-natural-wine","category-organic","category-restaurants","category-uncategorized"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/la-ruchotte-1-revised-e1499193171180.jpg?fit=1285%2C965&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7QzTy-oI","jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1532","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1532"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1532\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2693,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1532\/revisions\/2693"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1535"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1532"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1532"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1532"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}