{"id":1856,"date":"2017-09-04T16:16:28","date_gmt":"2017-09-04T20:16:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.daveswinecellar.com\/?p=1856"},"modified":"2020-04-13T09:32:46","modified_gmt":"2020-04-13T13:32:46","slug":"distinctive-crozes-hermitage-reds-deliver-quality-personality-and-value","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/2017\/09\/04\/distinctive-crozes-hermitage-reds-deliver-quality-personality-and-value\/","title":{"rendered":"Distinctive Crozes-Hermitage Reds With Quality, Personality and Value"},"content":{"rendered":"

Each year with France’s Northern Rh\u00f4<\/b>ne red wines, critics and consumers alike heap accolades on the marvelous selections from C\u00f4te-R\u00f4tie<\/b> and Hermitage. Reds from the nearby appellation of Crozes-Hermitage which also rely on Syrah grapes go largely unheralded. So the wines often languish on retail shelves even with prices a third or less of their prestigious C\u00f4te-R\u00f4tie<\/b> and Hermitage cousins.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

The situation creates great opportunities for astute consumers to snare terrific values. More and more Crozes-Hermitage winegrowers defy stereotypes by dedicating themselves to producing terroir-<\/em>focused reds with outstanding quality and plenty of personality. The key lies in purchasing red Crozes-Hermitage wines from growers who work hard in the vineyards and then let fermentations unfold naturally in the cellar.<\/p>\n

During a visit to the appellation in May, 2017, I had the pleasure of tasting a solid handful of intriguing wines from Domaine St\u00e9phane Rousset, David Reynaud from\u00a0Domaine les Bruy\u00e8res, Domaine Dard & Ribo, Domaine Yann Chave, and Domaine du Colombier.<\/p>\n

\"crozes
Rousset’s “Les Picaudi\u00e8res” features old vines with southern exposure and dramatic views towards the Rh\u00f4ne River.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Domaine St\u00e9phane Rousset:<\/strong><\/p>\n

One look at the engaging St\u00e9phane Rousset (pictured above) reveals a vigneron who clearly spends plenty of time in the vineyards soaking up sun. He works on the steep, wine-swept rocky slopes around the communes of Er\u00f4me and Gervans in the northern portion of the Crozes-Hermtage appellation. Like the neighboring Hermitage hillside just\u00a0 to the south, hard granite subsoils predominate in Rousset’s dramatic, picturesque vineyards such as “Les Picaudi\u00e8res.”<\/p>\n

The rocky, terraced vineyard features vines up to eighty years old which Rousset works by hand. His sustainable lutte raisonn\u00e9e<\/em> methods minimize chemical treatments. After hand harvesting, he removes most of the stems and ferments the juice naturally in stainless steel with gentle r\u00e9montage<\/em>. Aging occurs in large, old foudres<\/em> and smaller Burgundy style barrels.<\/p>\n

The 2014 St\u00e9phane Rousset, Crozes-Hermitage “Les Picaudi\u00e8res” <\/strong>delivers dark red fruit and black pepper aromas opening to ripe, polished black fruit flavors with perfectly balanced concentration and silky tannins. A marvelous, pure wine ready to enjoy! In the U\/S. Chambers Street Wines <\/a><\/strong><\/span>offers the wine for $22.99.<\/p>\n

\"crozes David Reynaud:<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Beginning in 2000, winegrower David Reynaud converted his family’s Domaine les Bruy\u00e8res to organic and biodynamic production certified, respective<\/strong>ly, by ECOCERT and Biodyvin<\/a>. <\/strong>The changes served his goals of enhancing the purity of fruit and freshness in the wines.<\/p>\n

Today Reynaud uses grapes from 20 to 30 year old Syrah vines growing in clay and limestone soils on the plain south of Hermitage Hill. The vines lie in the commune of Beaumont-Monteaux near the Is\u00e8re River. Round “galet” rocks cover the ground and help retain heat to ripen the grapes. Reynaud and his team work the vines manually without synthetic chemical treatments. Performing \u00e9bourgeonnages<\/em>—removal of excess buds in late Spring—and vendanges en vert<\/em>–removal of excess green grape bunches—keeps yields at a relatively low 40 hectoliters per hectare.<\/p>\n

Manual harvest precedes careful selection on a sorting table followed by natural fermentation in concrete, egg-shaped vats. Aging occurred in 50% older barrique<\/em> barrels and 50% in concrete. All the works shines in the delicious 2012 Domaine les Bruy\u00e8res, Crozes-Hermitage “Cuv\u00e9e Georges.” <\/strong>The wine is an homage to Reynaud’s grandfather, who passed in 2000, the year of David’s first vintage.<\/p>\n

Ripe dark fruit aromas open to fresh, fruity flavors with zesty acidity. Mouthwatering freshness balances the long, fruity finish. Owner\/Sommelier Nicolas Kalbache<\/b>–Vernerey features the wine at his terrific restaurant <\/b>Aux Gourmands<\/a><\/strong> at <\/b>8, Place du March\u00e9 in Mont\u00e9limar, Fance. In the U.S., Wine Works Online<\/a><\/strong> in New Jersey offers the wine for $29.95.<\/p>\n

Dard & Ribo:<\/strong><\/p>\n

For over thirty years, winegrowing partners Ren\u00e9-Jean Dard and Fran\u00e7<\/span>ois Ribo have produced “natural” wines long before the current fashion. Today their wines are cult classics with natural wine enthusiasts, yet Dard and Ribo still go quietly about their business ignoring the limelight while producing wines with terrific personality and distinction.\"crozes<\/span><\/p>\n

Their main vineyards lie in the hilly, northerly side of the appellation in the communes of Larnage and Crozes-Hermitage, itself. The soils offer a mix of clay and granite covered with gravel and sands. The area’s altitude and relatively cooler climate creates the potential for chiselled, structured wines with refinement. But the partners also favor an easy drinking, delicious style emphasizing transparent, ripe fruit and minimal oaky notes.<\/p>\n

The 2015 Dard & Ribo, Crozes-Hermitage <\/strong>offers a lovely dark purple color with piping aromas of black fruits and black pepper. Rich, ripe flavors of raspberries and blackberries mingle with meaty notes. Fresh acidity, smooth tannins and mouthwatering minerality. Delicious, superb pleasure! Close your eyes and you’ll swear your drinking delicious Fresh acidity, smooth tannins and mouthwatering minerality. Delicious, superb pleasure! Tastes more like a C\u00f4te R\u00f4tie! Available in the U.S. from Vanderbilt Wine Merchants<\/a><\/strong> for $35 and from Flatiron Wines & Spirits<\/a><\/strong> for $35.99.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n


\nYann Chave:<\/span><\/strong>\"la<\/p>\n

Since officially joining his father Bernard at the family domaine in Mercurol in 1998, the affable Yann Chave has become a champion of improving the quality and reputation of Crozes-Hermitage wines. At his own domaine, he has taken the lead by converting to organic cultivation under the European rules for Agriculture Biologique<\/em>.<\/p>\n

The wines have improved steadily as shown in the 2014 Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage “Le Rouvre.” <\/strong>The Syrah grapes come from a special selection of 50-year old vines toiling in rocky soils in the southern plain near\u00a0Pont de l’Is\u00e8re,
\nChave implements green harvesting to limit yields and harvests manually. For this wine, he ferments only free-run juice in large 600 litre oak barrels, only some of which are new.<\/span><\/p>\n

One of France’s leading sommeliers, Baptiste Cavagna,<\/a><\/strong> serves the wine at La Pyramide, Chef Patrick Henriroux’s<\/a><\/strong> gastronomic Michelin two-star stop in Vienne. Cavagna paired the wine with a Fricass\u00e9e d’escargots du Rozay<\/em>—saut\u00e9ed and braised Rozay snails served with crisp, tiny new potatoes and peas over a savory base of finely minced and caramelized meat from pig’s feet and ears. It paired nicely with the wine’s deep purple color and\u00a0tantalizing aromas of ripe dark fruit and black pepper. Concentrated, ripe fruit balanced with terrific freshness and prominent, yet smooth tannins. It all made for a deliciously memorable pairing!<\/span><\/p>\n

In the U.S., Cellar Door Fine Wines<\/a><\/strong><\/span> sells the\u00a02015 Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage “Le Rouvre.”<\/strong> for $33.95.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Domaine du Colombier:<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"crozes
Patriarch Gaby Viale picking cherries at the domaine. He is the namesake of Domaine du Colombier’s top Crozes-Hemitage red.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Brothers Florentand David Viale run this highy reliable domaine whose vineyards lie in Mercurol and Tain l’Hermitage.The tall, affable Florent oversees winemaking, and he favors a soft and approachable, yet always fresh and well balanced style. After harvest, he destems the fruit which ferments in large, mostly older 600-liter casks.<\/p>\n

For the domaine’s top Crozes-Hermitage red, the “Cuv\u00e9e Gaby,” Viale makes a selection from the top casks made from “old vines.” The wine pays homage to the family patriarch, Gabriel, who was born in 1939 and who remains vital and active. The Viale family has long grown cherries and apricots as well as grapes, and on a visit in May, we found the jovial Gaby picking cherries in the warm afternoon sun. In a memorable, beautiful moment, he graciously shared his juicy, sweet harvest still warm from the sun.<\/p>\n

The 2015 Domaine du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage “Cuv\u00e9e Gaby” <\/strong>tasted from cask at the domaine offered dark fruit aromas with smoky, meaty notes and hints of wild herbs. Ripe, rich fruit with good concentration and ample fresh mixed with soft tannins. This will be a a wine to drink either now with decanting or up to \"crozes5 years or more of aging.<\/p>\n

I recently enjoyed a 2009 Domaine du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage “Cuv\u00e9e Gaby,” <\/strong>a wine with eight years n the bottle, and yet it still offered plenty of ripe dark fruit, black pepper and floral aromas. Ripe, rich dark fruit flavors balancde mouthwatering mineral freshness and soft tannins through a lingering, fresh finish. One of those bottles that practically drinks itself!<\/p>\n

In the U.S., Astor Wines<\/a><\/strong> offers the\u00a02014 Domaine du Colombier, Crozes-Hermitage “Cuv\u00e9e Gaby” for $39.96. \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Each year with France’s Northern Rh\u00f4ne red wines, critics and consumers alike heap accolades on the marvelous selections from C\u00f4te-R\u00f4tie and Hermitage. Reds from the nearby appellation of Crozes-Hermitage which also rely on Syrah grapes go largely unheralded. So the wines often languish on retail shelves even with prices a third or less of their […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1857,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":true,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[70,134,176,129,1,177],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1856","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-biodynamic","category-crozes-hermitage","category-daves-wine-tips","category-rhone","category-uncategorized","category-winegrowers"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/08\/crozes-roussell.jpeg?fit=719%2C539&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p7QzTy-tW","jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1856","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1856"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1856\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2861,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1856\/revisions\/2861"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1857"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1856"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1856"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/daveswinecellar.com\/old\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1856"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}