Just outside the picture-postcard village of Turckheim in Alsace, France, winegrower Olivier Humbrecht tramps through the rows of his hillside Clos Jebsal vineyard. His observant eye focuses not on the vines, but on the plants on the ground.
“By looking at what grows between the vines, I can tell about the soil conditions,” Humbrecht says. Various grasses and vetch-like plants indicate healthy, living soils for him.
Humbrecht and like-minded growers prize such soils lying just above “mother rock” geological layers.Healthy soils foster the environment necessary to produce terroir-focused wines.
In living soils, robust micro-organisms — worms, fungi and bacteria — break down the underlying rocks into humus-
containing minerals. Meanwhile, vigorous cover plants compete for nutrients, forcing grapevines to sink roots deep into the humus and rocks. There, the vines absorb the decomposed minerals that help define each site’s distinct terroir. Distinct mineral traits help provide opportunities to produce mouthwatering wines with personality and a sense of place.
“The idea is to keep as much humidity as possible in the soils while forcing the vines to work and perform like well-trained sportsmen,” Humbrecht says.
Humid soils play a critical role in Alsace, France’s second-driest climate after Roussillon. The Vosges Mountains along Alsace’s western flank create a “shadow” that cuts rainfall by half.
Each growing cycle also bathes Alsace in plentiful sunshine. To take full advantage, biodynamic growers like Humbrecht and similar organic grape-growers eschew synthetic chemical herbicides and fertilizers. Rather, they work the vineyards by hand while applying natural composts to avoid overly vigorous vine growth. In turn, the vines efficiently convert ample sunlight into ripe flavors conveyed along with minerality through the grape skins.
Communicating distinct mineral traits becomes especially important in Alsace, which features more than 40 diverse rock substrates and 51 unique Grand Cru sites. Humbrecht’s Clos Jebsal lies atop gray marl Keuper limestone, rich in clay and gypsum. The dramatically pitched Brand Grand Cru vineyard just above features granite and black mica interspersed with Muschelkalk limestone.
Further down in the valley near the winery, Herrenreg de Turckheim vineyard’s gently rolling surface with gravelly, well drained alluvial soils. Humbrecht uses the site to create pure varietal representations. In the case of the 2012 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France,classic pineapple and rose-petal aromas meld with ripe pineapple and grapefruit flavors. Crisp acidity and mineral notes balance the fruity, dry finish. Highly recommended.
Over the mountain, half-timbered houses festooned with colorful flowers hug narrow, steep streets in the charming village of Niedermorschwihr. Here, youthful winegrower Jean Boxler closely attends surrounding vineyards.
“My life is in the vineyards,” Boxler says. “I know perfectly each parcel of vines. You have to be in the vineyards to observe and take risks.”
He enjoys an ideal work commute with the dramatic Sommerberg Grand Cru vineyard abutting the family winery. And like Humbrecht, Boxler favors well-balanced wines with ripe flavors, ample body, rich minerality and persistent length in the glass.
The 2012 Domaine Albert Boxler Pinot Gris, Sommerberg Grand Cru “Wiptal,” Alsace, France offers deep-golden color with ripe citrus, peach and berry aromas layered in ripe flavors and rich minerality. The fabulously fruity, pitch perfect finish persists endlessly. Highly recommended.
Not far from southern Alsace’s main city of Colmar, winegrower Philippe Zinck follows an organic vineyard path. His Pfersigberg Grand Cru in Eguisheim and Goldert Grand Cru in the serene neighboring medieval hamlet of Geuberschwihr teem with ground cover plants and healthy, sturdy vines. Walking the vineyards, Zinck plucks riesling and pinot gris grapes for all-important taste tests.
“If you don’t have flavor and quality here, you won’t have it in the wines,” he says, while holding out a small, but flavorful grape. “The soils must be healthy to support life and offer minerals to the vines. It is not the beauty of the grapes on the outside that matters. It is the flavors inside that count.”
To capture the fruit’s quality, he pays passionate atte
ntion to critical details in the winery. Hand harvested, whole grape clusters enter pneumatic bladder presses for gentle extraction of maximum flavors and minerality without harshness. Fermentation with primarily native yeasts in temperature-controlled vats preserves freshness. Bottling with minimal sulfur and without fining and filtering again maintains natural flavors.
The N.V. Domaine Zinck Crémant d’Alsace Brut, France, a sparkling wine made with secondary fermentation in the bottle, delivers frothy berry and citrus aromas with light yeastiness. Ripe fruity notes balance the clean, dry finish. Highly recommended.
The 2014 Domaine Zinck Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France highlights the grape’s distinct varietal personality with straightforward, easy enjoyment. The vines for the pinot blanc grow in silt and clay soils near the bottom of the slopes in Eguisheim. Yet Philippe’s painstaking, organic approach again promotes living, vibrant soils with healthy vines and high quality grapes. Fermentation for the pinot blanc occurs in stainless-steel tanks. The final wine unfolds fruity pear and white flower aromas opening to vibrant apple and pear flavors. Zesty acidity and light creamy notes balance the dry, fresh finish full of finesse and fruity purity. Highly recommended.