Visiting the village of Saint Aubin takes a bit of effort. It lies at the bottom of Burgundy’s famed Côte-d’Or vineyards, just to the west of Chassagne-Montrachet. You pass the village on the way to the magnificent Сhâteau de la Rochepot, a restored historical site. For those who make the trip and snare a visit with the hard working vigneron Olivier Lamy at Domaine Hubert Lamy, a tutorial awaits in terroir and the pleasures of fine Burgundies, both white and red.
The affable and thoughtful Lamy exudes passion for his diverse vineyards, at least eighteen distinctly named places. In addition to Saint-Aubin, his vines dot sites in Santenay, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, There’s just under 47 acres with twenty percent Pinot Noir vines and the remainder being Chardonnay.
Lamy cites relentless, meticulous vineyard work as the key to success. He precisely focuses all of his energies on maintaining the vines to produce exquisite fruit.
The winter brings la taille sévère, the severe pruning by hand of the vine canes. Spring entails l’ébourgeonnage, the tedious, back breaking work of carefully removing buds from the vines. And summer brings vendange en vert, a harvesting of green fruit. All efforts aim to maintain low yields and to allow each vine to focus on producing quality grapes. In battling pests and vine diseases, Lamy takes a lutte raisonée approach which strictly limits chemical applications and seeks to keep soils active and alive with life.
Harvest occurs manually, followed by another selection of the grapes in the cuverie. Gentle pneumatic pressing follows. Slow, natural fermentation occurs before élevage of the wines for up to eighteen months in barriques and larger demi-muid barrels. Olivier uses around twenty percent new wood each year.
As for tasting the wines, Lamy’s impressive savoir-faire and dedicated hard work are fully evident. Each wine is a thoroughbred offering personality, precision and pleasure.,Each faithfully reflects the subtle differences of its terroir. Magnificent freshness, transparent fruit, exhilarating tension, and beautiful mineral balance carry across the lineup.
Lamy lets the wines speak for themselves in the glass. He watches with a knowing gaze and smile, ever ready with an explanation as tasters marvel at and enjoy each wine. The wizard who knows that the apparent magic in the glass comes, in reality, from patient hard work carried out hour after hour both in the vineyards and in the cellar. Nobody does it better or with more dedication than Olivier Lamy.
But Lamy would also be first to acknowledge that Mother Nature’s cooperation also helps in Burgundy’s often damp and unpredictable climate. In general, 2015 shapes up as one of the best and reasonably bountiful vineyards in many years. The month of September offered plenty of sun and only a little rain, Cooling breezes allowed the grapes to ripen beautifully with little rot and damaged fruit. The following 2015 wines were tasted in October, 2016, in Saint-Aubin. Lamy exports 65% of his wines to global markets:
Reds:
In 2015, Olivier used varying amounts of whole cluster fermentation to produce delicious, savory reds that will drink pleasurably over the next 5 to 15 years.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Santenay–50% whole cluster fermentation. Fresh, ripe red fruit, a touch of pleasant earthiness; clean, fruity flavors and modest concentration finish; plenty of freshness and smooth tannins.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Chassange-Montrachet Rouge–again fresh, ripe red fruit, plenty of freshness, moderate concentration, perhaps a little more tannic.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin “Derrière Chez Edouard’ 1er cru–the pure red fruit, taut acidity and smooth tannins continue here but with more concentration than the village wines. Elegant, delightful pleasure.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Santenay “Les Gravières‘ 1er cru–Lamy thinks very highly of this small plot of “old vines” Pinot Noir growing in rocky marl and limestone. The pure red fruit continues with a touch of earthiness. The concentration is enhanced here and the acidity and elegant tannins create terrific balance for a long, striking finish of great pleasure.
Whites:
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Bourgogne Blanc “Les Chataigners”— from vines just next to Saint-Aubin. Here is a classy white Burgundy over delivering quality for the price. Crisp grapefruit and quince aromas and full flavors; direct, taut acidity; light and elegant through a flavorful finish.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin “La Princée”–made from a blend of fruit from the western side of the village. Whole bunches are pressed directly. Ripe citrus aromas open to a precise, crisp attack of firm, ripe fruit; moderate concentration, rich acidity and a touch of creaminess. Lovely.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Santenay “Les Gravières‘ 1er cru–ripe pineapple and citrus aromas lead to crisp, ripe fruit. Rich concentration balances with pronounced acidity and elegant creaminess. Long, crisp, seductive finish.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Chassagne-Montrachet “Le Concis du Champs”–a village lieu-dit with mainly clay soils produces fresh citrus aromas with more concentrated, ripe fruit; ample, fresh acidity; fermented in barrel; delicious finish.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Puligny-Montrachet “Les Tremblots”–village lieu-dit with deep clay and limestone on a mild grade; old vines of 45 years and over 80 years old; long alcoholic fermentation; aged in 20% new wood. Fresh citrus, mango and pineapple aromas followed by ripe,yet crisp fruity flavors balanced with fresh acidity. The long, seductive and refined finish has a touch of pleasant salinity. Exotic!
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin “Les Frionnes” 1er cru–a blend of fruit from vines of varying ages with some near 80 years old; long fermentation leads to crisp attack with ripe citrus; correct, pure fruit and fresh acidity; again a touch of pleasant salinity on the finish. Should continue to balance with several years in bottle,
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint-Aubin “Derrière Chez Edouard’ 1er cru–relatively young vines; long alcoholic fermentation and aging results in a very fresh, crisp wine with well balanced concentration; the freshness and precise balance carries through the vibrant. clean finish.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin, “Clos De La Chatenière” 1er cru–from older vines planted on the eastern side of the village towards Puligny-Montrachet. Ripe citrus and tropical fruit aromas with smoky notes; ripe fruit with enhanced depth and concentration. A big, ripe wine with flesh butl plenty of fresh acidity and minerality for terrific balance. Again very seductive and delicious.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Blanc, “En Remilly” 1er cru–made from vines located east of the village near Puligny-Montrachet, just around the hill from the Grand Crus.. A resounding wine with pineapple and citrus aromas; ripe fruit flavors with full concentration balance with rich acidity, a touch a creaminess and an elegant, refreshing finish. Tremendous purity and pleasure.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin Blanc, “Murgers Des Dents De Chien” 1er cru–made from vines located just above and over the hill from the woods above Le Montrachet Grand Cru. Another big, resounding wine with great depth of fresh fruit and marvelous fresh acidity. Intriguing from start to the delightful, long finish. Has the fruit and freshness to age beautifully.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Chassagne-Montrachet, “Les Macherelles” 1er cru–a site located near the neighboring village and comprised of limestone, marl and sand. Delivers a wine with distinctly earthy, smoky notes balancing the fresh citrus fruit. Plenty of depth and fresh acidity. The most “rustic” of Lamy’s lineup but still quite elegant and pure.
2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Chassagne-Montrachet, “Les Chaumées” 1er cru–made from soils with more clay complementing the limestone. Distinct aromas of peaches and earthy touches. Great concentration and flavor with superb freshness and a long finish. Will age beautifully
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2015 Domaine Hubert Lamy, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru “Haute Densité”–made from vines just down slope from Bâtard-Montrachet in a tiny parcel with extremely rocky soils with little clay. Vines averaging over 40 years planted with high density. Tremendously complex aromas with ripe stone fruit and citrus. Marvelous depth of flavors and freshness. The only wine with a touch of noticeable oak in the vibrant finish, but a decade or so in the bottle with doubtlessly knit all elements together.
Older Vintages:
The 2007 Saint Aubin “Les Frionnes” 1er cru is still fresh as a daisy and delightful.Fruity, clean, fresh with good concentration–not a hint of oxidation.
The 2000 Saint Aubin “Mergers des Dents de Chien” 1er cru remains lively and fresh 15 years after a modest vintage. Simply masterful, outstanding winemaking here. Terrific pleasure. The Wizard at work again!.