Cooking at home, we occasionally enjoy seared duck breast with a sauce of black cherries and tawny port. Recently we tried this savory dish a delicious twist. Instead of tawny port, we substituted winegrower Jean-François Deu’s marvelous N.V. Domaine du Traginer, Banyuls Ambré “Vin Doux Naturel” from France. The results were fantastic!
TAWNY PORT VERSUS “VIN DOUX NATURAL”
Like Portuguese tawny ports, N.V. Domaine du Traginer, Banyuls Ambré is a “fortified” wine. During fermentation, added neutral spirits naturally preserve some sweetness and take the wine’s alcohol by volume to around 17%. This is called “vin doux naturel” in France.
Jean-François Deu then ages the vin doux naturel for fifteen years in small, older barrels. This creates the wine’s engaging, bright amber color, similar to tawny port wine. The key differences, however, between tawny ports and the N.V. Domaine du Traginer, Banyuls Ambré come with terroir and Jean-François Deu’s biodynamic approach in the vineyards and wine cellar.
BANYULS TERROIR
Most importantly, Deu’s terroir includes a combination of Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir, Grenache Blanc and Muscat vines growing in Banyuls. This appellation lies at the bottom of the Pyrénées Mountains near France’s border with Spain.
As a result, the vines grow on steep, terraced hillsides overlooking the Mediterranean Sea’s azure blue water. Plentiful sunshine fully ripens the fruit, while sea breezes preserve fresh acidity. Steady winds also help protect the vines from mildew.
Yet the beautiful, unique terroir also brings challenges. For instance, the area’s meager soils cover a stony, schist bedrock. And an arid climate provides little moisture. As a result, the toiling vines produce flavorful, distinctive fruit.
DEU’S ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC APPROACH
Since 1997 Deu has capitalized fully. He cultivates his soils and vines in a certified organic approach. Consequently, he farms without synthetic chemicals and instead plows the vineyards with the aid of mules. Deu also applies biodynamic methods (as certified by Demeter) to encourage healthy vines with natural disease resistance.
THE RESULT: A DELICIOUS WINE WITH COMPLEX FRUIT
Deu’s effort result in more complex and vibrant grapes as reflected in the delicious N.V. Domaine du Traginer, Banyuls Ambré “Vin Doux Naturel” (available from Chambers Street Wines; $49.99). The wine’s brilliant amber color offers floral, orange spice and toffee aromas. Flavors of citrus, apricot, and marzipan follow. Refreshing, uplifting acidity provides marvelous balance to the wine’s rich sweetness. As a result. this absolutely gorgeous wine added delicious, distinct flavors to the sauce for the seared duck breast. The Banyuls Ambré made a nice dessert by itself!
Have you tasted Banyuls’ distinctive fortified wines? Or have you visited this beautiful region? Share your experiences in the comments below and cheers!