In Burgundy, truly accomplished winegrowers lavish meticulous care on all their wines from top to bottom. As Clive Coates, M.W. advised in “The Wines of Burgundy” (University of California Press, 2008), tasting a grower’s lesser wines in difficult vintages delivers more reliable information than tasting only their top wines from fine years.
Consider, for instance, Sylvie Esmonin in Gevrey-Chambertin. She offers a marvelous top wine, the Gevrey-Chambertin “Clos Saint-Jacques” 1er cru. Yet her less famous Côte de Nuits-Villages bottles also provide consistently delicious, top quality red wines.
For example, the 2014 Domaine Sylvie Esmonin, Côte de Nuits-Villages has evolved beautifully. The wine comes from a year with difficult summer weather followed by a sunny September harvest.
After five years in the bottle, this wine’s deep garnet color offers black cherry, red currant and spicy aromas. Pretty floral notes and subtle ripe stemminess add attractiveness. Rich, dark red fruit flavors follow with spicy accents and a touch of earthiness. Bright, fresh acidity and fine, supple tannins provide good structure for the wine’s long, fine finish.
So how does Sylvie Esmonin do it? Above all, she pays close attention to the health and vitality of her old pinot noir vines and their soils. Afterwards she uses a restrained hand in making and aging the wine.
OLD VINES IN BROCHON AND SAVOIR-FAIRE
Esmonin’s Côte de Nuits-Villages wine comes from older pinot noir vines in the neighboring village of Brochon. The vines hold favorable spots in mid-slope vineyards and range between 50 and 85 years old. They naturally produce lower yields of fruit with complex aromas and concentrated flavors.
To highlight the fruit, Esmonin does everything possible to let the grapes’ natural traits shine. As a result, in 1990 she abandoned spraying chemical herbicides on the soils. She also avoids using chemical pesticides and fungicides. Consequently, the domaine team works the vines manually.
After harvest, she fermented around thirty percent of grapes in whole-clusters, stems and all. This helps account for the wine’s gorgeous garnet color, its bewitching floral notes, and the marvelous freshness. Aging occurred with only 30% new oak barrels.
BALANCE AND DRINKABILITY
In short, 2014 Domaine Sylvie Esmonin, Côte de Nuits-Villages has exquisite balance. Five years of cellar aging mellowed the wine’s concentration and softened its firm tannins. Yet the beautiful aromas and charm of youth remain, and today the wine is a pleasure to drink.
Have you enjoyed any of Sylvie Esmonin wines? Or do you have a favorite Côte de Nuits-Villages wine? Share your thoughts below in the comments and cheers!