Wine drinkers who think only of Chardonnay when its comes to white burgundies should think again and taste the 2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Bourgogne-Aligoté. What an utterly delicious, terrific wine.
THE “PYCM” CRAZE
The producers, Pierre-Yves Colin and Caroline Morey, reside in the highly regarded wine producing village of Chassagne-Montrachet. They grow their own estate grapes and purchase fruit as well for their wines.
Generally referred as PYCM, for short, the couple’s wines attract a cult following. Indeed, bottles of PYCM Grand Cru, Meursault 1er crus and Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru whites sell out before hitting retail shelves. Their more modest Saint-Aubin “En Remilly” 1er cru carries an average U.S. retail price of $100. The Saint-Aubin village white goes for $63, and even their Bourgogne Blanc fetches $47. Doubtless these wines made from Chardonnay grapes deliver marvelous quality and pleasure, but at what price?
2018 PIERRE-YVES COLIN-MOREY, BOURGOGNE-ALIGOTÉ
So with a price around $33, it makes perfect sense buying bottles of the delicious 2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Bourgogne-Aligoté (Average U.S. retail price on winesearcher.com: $33). The wine comes from purchased fruit. Details are unavailable on the exact vineyard sources of the grapes, but one suspects that PVYC relies on older Aligoté vines. Information on the fermentation and aging of the wine is also scanty. But none that matters when you pull the cork and drink this delicious wine.
As with PYCM’s other white wines, the 2018 Bourgogne-Aligoté opens strong. It delivers pure, irresistible aromas of white flowers, citrus, apples and a faint hint of smokiness. Then on the palate, pure citrus, ripe pears, and crisp apple flavors balance with marvelous fresh acidity and a touch of creaminess. The wine has some richness and lingers beautifully on the finish. It has real energy. Drinking it is a sheer delight.
When a grower achieves this kind of quality with the least of his or her wines, it is a true testament to that grower’s overall ability and level of commitment to the professional métier.
The PYCM Bourgogne-Aligoté delivers especially good value in 2018. Pierre-Yves Colin calls it the most complete vintage of his career. He says the following on the website for Skurnik Wine and Spirits (his American importer):
“2018 is truly the first vintage where we felt that we were able to comfortably master, from start to finish, the vineyard work, growing season, and harvest, with complete serenity. It all came together in 2018….”
As of today, national availability of the 2018 PYCN Bourgogne-Aligoté is quite good. But act fast. This wine surely will be snapped up.
LES ALIGOTEURS
PYCM’s Bourgogne-Aligoté provides further evidence of the grape’s true potential for quality and smart value. Both growers and wine consumers increasingly are embracing high quality Aligoté wines.
Les Aligoteurs is an association dedicated to preserving Burgundy’s old Aligoté vines. The group also promotes aw
areness of the wines. The founders include Chef Philippe Delacourcelle and growers Sylvain Pataille, Laurent Fournier, Pablo Chevrot, Jérôme Galeyrand, Nicolas Faure and Anne Morey. For current information on their efforts, check out the Facebook page.
Have you tasted the either the PYCM or other Bourgogne-Aligoté wines? Share your comments below and cheers!