Dave’s Wine Tips: Domaine Julien Cruchandeau, 2018 Bouzeron “Massale”

The 2018 Julien Cruchandeau, Bouzeron “Cuvée Massale” is a delightful and delicious white Burgundy wine that just makes you smile with pleasure and appreciation. But here’s the thing. The wine comes not from chardonnay, but from top quality Aligoté grapes grown in the Bouzeron appellation. Under talented grower Julien Cruchandeau’s attentive care, his Aligoté vines produce the marvelous raw material necessary for making this remarkable wine.

The wine’s golden, green-tinged color opens with aromas of delicate white flowers and ripe citrus along with faint hints of herbs and smokiness. In the glass, pure, ripe citrus flavors with good concentration balance with zesty, fresh acidity and delicious creamy notes. The fruity, yet dry finish lingers deliciously.

Several years ago, maverick direct wine importer/retailer, Lyle Fass of Fass Selections, helped to introduce Cruchandeau to American wine drinkers. More recently, Fass offered the 2018 Julien Cruchandeau, Bouzeron “Cuvée Massale” for only $21.99, but the wine had to be pre-ordered. (Other retailers continue to offer prior vintages of the wine for an average U.S. retail price of $27.00 according to wine-searcher.com.) Keep an eye on Fass Selections’ website and wine-searcher.com for opportunities to buy.

JULIEN CRUCHANDEAU

Winegrower Julien Cruchandeau grew up in Burgundy’s capital of Dijon. But his was not a winemaking family. Early on he entered the hospitality industry and worked in France and England. Keen interests in both wine and electronic music ensued.

In 2000 Cruchandeau enrolled in an oenology program in Burgundy. Eventually he landed a job as estate manager at Domaine France Léchenault in Bouzeron. Bouzeron happens to be the epicenter of Burgundy’s Aligoté production, thanks in large part to winegrowers Aubert de Villaine and Pierre de Benoist who champion the grape’s potential.

Cruchandeau paid close attention and learned quickly. In 2003 he made a bold move. He founded his own domaine from scratch by purchasing his first vines in Bouzeron along with his own winemaking equipment.

Simultaneously he pursued a side interest as a professional musician with the group Shrink Orchestra. Between 2004 and 2010 Cruchandeau performed in 200 concerts one after the other, both in the Burgundy and around Europe. Meanwhile in 2007, his domaine progressed. He moved his little winery to a larger facility in Chaux, a tiny hamlet (population 408!) in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits hills above Nuits-Saint-Georges. Today Cruchandeau produces a lovely range of red and white wines, but Bouzeron’s Aligoté vines remain close to his heart.

BOUZERON AND ALIGOTÉ

All Bouzeron white wines by law must come from Aligoté grapes.  In the case of Cruchandeau’s wine, the fruit comes from vines averaging nearly 70 years old. His vines encompass distinctive “massale” selections, as opposed to clonal selections. The latter deliver enhanced disease resistance and produce larger, more predictable crops. In the process, however, clonal selections sacrifice some of the delicate aromas and distinctive flavors more readily available in “massale” selection grapes.

Cruchandeau’s Aligoté vines grow on marl soils on south facing slopes providing plenty of sun. After harvesting by hand, he ferments the grapes in stainless steel vats. Aging of the wine occurs mainly in steel tanks with the remaining 10% aging in new oak barrels. The barrels add the subtle creamy notes and spice aromas.

The result with the 2018 Domaine Julien Cruchandeu, Bouzeron “Cuvée Massale” is a wine of exquisite well-balance, irresistible aromas and delicious flavors.

Have you tried either Julien Cruchandeau’s wine or other Bouzeron wines? Please share your comments below and cheers!