The southern Italian province of Campania offers many famous attractions. The volcano, Mt. Vesuvius, stands brooding over the city of Naples while the ruins of Pompeii recall the dramatic eruption in 79 A.D. The blue Bay of Naples and the precarious, winding cliffs of the Amalfi Coast provide beautiful vistas. And of course, Campania’s diverse, high-quality wine and fresh foods figure prominently in the regional culture.
For example, inland from Naples, the town of Montella — where in 1878 my paternal grandmother, Libra Mascola, was born — is famed throughout Italy for Castagna di Montella, i.e., plump, delicious chestnuts}. As for wines, not far away in the town of Atripalda near Avellino, the now-famed Mastroberardino family began, coincidentally in 1878, exporting their wines around Europe and internationally. (The map below shows Campania’s location in Italy.)
To discuss Mastroberardino’s well-known Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso and other wines, Piero Mastroberardino, who now oversees the winery operations, recently discussed his family’s legacy and their current endeavors.
“I grew up in the business and from an early age remember the excitement and feelings of the harvest each year,” Piero recalls. “It has always been part of who I am.”
Piero represents the tenth generation working with the family’s farm and vineyards, but early on he pursued an academic career in economics. Today he still holds a position at the University of Foggia as a professor of business management specializing in corporate governance, sustainability, family businesses and wine business. Along the way, he did, however, pursue an enology degree. He also is a published novelist.
These diverse experiences come in handy at the family winery where Piero’s father, Antonio, reclaimed the family legacy after the devastation of World War II. Antonio had the courage and tenacity to rebuild the winery while also restoring the vineyards. He also made a critical decision to focus on Campania’s indigenous grapes varieties such as Pedirosso and Aglianico for red wines and Fiano, Greco, and Falanghina for white wines.
His bet paid off as wine drinkers around the world now enjoy Mastrobernardino’s versions of Campania’s native wines.
“It’s a privilege and responsibility to work with these varieties,” Piero says. He points out that Campania’s diverse terroirs are perfectly suited for the winegrowing of its native vines.
Camapania's Diverse Grapegrowing Terroir
Vineyards near the volcano and the sea are quite different, he says, from those located inland near the winery. This results in very different wines.
“The altitude above sea level is around 150 to 200 meters near Vesuvius, and the temperature extremes are not as great between day and night,” Piero Mastroberardino says. “The soils are volcanic and sandy and well-drained.”
Consequently, the wines from the lower altitude wines have an immediately fruity and soft character that makes them terrific for early enjoyment. Meanwhile, Avellino’s inland vineyards sit at higher altitudes with more daily extremes in temperatures. And the chalk and clay soils give the wines more structure and fine tannins. That said, making wine should never be done in a rote manner, according to Mastroberardino.
“Every vintage is different, and we don’t make our wines by recipes,” Piero says. “We try to interpret and creatively express each vintage while respecting and reflecting the distinctive character of each vineyard.”
The Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio wines come from vines planted at the lower altitudes near the volcano as shown in the picture above.
“Thanks to the influence of the Bourbon kings of Naples, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio wines once enjoyed universal fame in Italy and around Europe,” Piero points out. “They still are very important for us.”
“Lacryma Christi,” literally the “tears of Christ,” refers to a legend saying that Christ’s tears fell from heaven onto to the land giving divine inspiration to the vines planted there. In producing a red wine, the Mastroberardino del Vesuvio Rosso relies on piedirosso grapes, a black-skinned variety with roots stretching all the way back to the Roman era.
To capture the grapes’ fruity character, the Mastroberardino team utilizes vinification in stainless steel tanks for about 15 days at a controlled temperature. The young wine is then bottled without aging in oak barrels and, after a few months, is released for immediate enjoyment.
The 2022 Mastroberardino, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso, Campania, Italy (National U.S. Price on Wine-Searcher: $26.00; Only in Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board Code: 25981; $19.99) has a dark ruby color offering aromas of plums with intriguing smoky accents. On the palate, delicious dark plum and tart cherry flavors with medium concentration meld with fresh acidity and soft, silky tannins. It makes an excellent bet with either roasted salmon or a classic Neapolitan Margherita pizza. Only 12.5% alcohol by volume.
the Villa Dei Misteri Project In The ruins of Pompeii
Near to Mt. Vesuvius in the ruins of Pompeii, in 1996, Antonio Mastroberardino initiated another effort involving the Piedirosso grape. Working with the site’s archaeological board, Mastroberardino started the Villa dei Misteri project with the goal of replanting vineyards as they existed before the horrific destruction wrought on Pompeii by Mt. Vesuvius’ eruption.
“It was my father’s dream to replant vineyards in the Pompeii gardens,” Piero recalls. Honoring his father’s legacy, Piero carried on research and replanting work after taking the helm at his family’s winery.
Many Roman villas in Pompeii, including Villa dei Misteri, featured only little garden vineyards to provide grapes for home winemaking. But additional research revealed larger vineyards on the city’s outskirts near the Roman amphitheater which archeologists unearthed from the 15 feet of volcanic ash.
In this larger vineyard site, the Mastroberardinos planted Piedirosso as well as Sciascinoso and Aglianico, all vines consistent with the practices of the Roman era. Thanks to modern winemaking techniques that safeguard fruitiness and freshness, the final modern wines tasted nothing like those of ancient Pompeii. The ancient Romans could not preserve their wines with bottling and airtight winemaking equipment. Nonetheless, the Villa dei Misteri Project was deemed a success since the Mastroberardino family again grew vines in Pompeii as recorded in Roman history.
Inland Vineyards Near Avellino in the Irpinia Appellation
Further inland, at the family winery near Avellino, Antonio and Piero Mastroberardino focused on growing Aglianico vines for red wines and fiano, falanghina, and Greco vines for white wines. The goal was to capitalize on the region’s terroir, according to Piero, to produce both red wines and white wines with fine freshness and excellent compatibility with food.
The reds come from two appellations: Irpinia and Taurasi. As a practical matter, the Taurasi wines are quite structured and sturdy and are meant for long cellar aging. The Irpinia reds offer more opportunity for shorter term enjoyment even though they too, can age well.
For example, the 2020 Mastroberardino, Irpinia Aglianico, Italy (National U.S. Price on Wine Searcher: $24.00; Only in Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board Code: 25910; $19.99) comes from standard modern vines growing across several vineyards at the higher elevation of 400 meters over sea level. The grapes go through what Piero calls an “agile and graceful” vinification at a relatively shorter period of only fifteen days in stainless steel tanks. The wine then ages in wooden barrels for ten months before being bottled. They then rest for six months before release.
The resulting wine’s lovely garnet color unfolds enchanting aromas of red strawberries and cassis with light spicy notes. On the palate, ripe red and black fruit flavors with intriguing meaty accents balance with terrific freshness and elegant, soft tannins. Pair this truly delicious wine with either traditional pot roast and potatoes or pasta in a red sauce with ground meat and mushrooms.
The 2021 Mastroberardino, Irpinia Aglianico “RediMore,” Italy (Only in Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board Code: 37565; $24.99) comes from very special ancient Aglianico vine clones, according to Piero. Antonio Mastroberardino discovered the vines in a vineyard planted prior to the devastating phylloxera mite infestation which destroyed most European vineyards at the end of the 19th century. The Mastroberardinos succeeded in propagating the ancient clone in a single vineyard with low yields of grapes of medium size and thick skins.
To make the wine, the grapes fermented on the skins for 20 days in steel tanks before aging for twelve months in barrique oak barrels. After the bottling, the wine rested for an additional 6 months before release.
The resulting wine’s deep garnet color offers complex aromas of ripe raspberries, cocoa, and floral accents. On the palate, juicy, ripe red fruit flavors balance with zesty acidity and smooth, elegant tannins. Piero calls the wine a “baby Taurasi.” It pairs well with either grilled rib-eye steaks or cured meat platters.
Mastroberardino's White Wines and the Future
Turning to white wines, the 2021 Mastroberardino, Falanghina del Sannio, Italy (National U.S. Price on Wine-Searcher: $21.00; Only in Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board Code: 26417; $19.99) comes from a vine that the Greeks brought to Italy during colonization over a hundred years before the birth of Christ. The vine almost disappeared before Antonio Mastroberardino and others revived it after World War II. Falanghina vines do well on hillsides at high altitudes with relatively low humidity.
The modern version of the wine has a light straw color offering citrus and white floral aromas. The medium body offers fresh citrus and mineral notes with superb fresh acidity and a fruity, but dry finish. Piero recommends the wine with Fritto Misto: lightly fried seafood like calamari, octopus and shrimp.
Another white wine, the 2022 Mastroberardino, Fiano di Avellino, Italy (National U.S. on Wine-Searcher: $26.00; Only in Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board Code: 37511; $16.99) comes from a vine dating back at least to the Roman Era when it was known as apianum. This was a reference to the bees attracted to the natural sweetness of the fiano grapes.
Today it is another vine that does well on Avellino’s high-altitude hillsides with low humidity. Piero’s notes that fiano white wines have more structure and body.
“Fiano di Avellino is a great wine to enjoy now with fritto misto and fish,” Piero notes. “But it is also a wine that can age gracefully. I had a bottle recently from the 1970’s that still had freshness and delicacy.”
As for the future, Piero Mastroberardino has a clear vision and mission.
“We don’t look to expand to vineyards around Italy and overseas,” he says. “We focus on our knowledge and heritage here in Campania.”
Cheers!