When Euan Henderson, the manager of Scotland’s Speyburn Distillery, was a 10-year-old lad, his father, Iain, became distillery manager at Laphroaig Distillery. In 1989, the Henderson family moved to the windswept southwestern Scottish island of Islay (pronounced “EYE-la”), and it was there that Euan’s informal apprenticeship in Scotch whisky began.
“It was a remote place but good fun living at the distillery,” he recalls. “For my two brothers and me, the distillery and cask room were our playground, but our father also put us to work hosing out the mash tuns and filling the casks. I’m not sure it was all safe, but we grew up with whisky making.”
Euan recalls that in 1989, Laphroaig did not enjoy a world-wide reputation. But over time his father worked with the Laphroaig distillery team to spread the gospel of quality Islay Scotch whiskies now renowned internationally for their peaty tanginess.
In 1994, the Friends of Laphroaig Club began with each member receiving a lease on a 1-square-foot ceremonial piece of Laphroaig land on Islay. Feeling invested, members started visiting the distillery to collect a “dram” of Laphroaig whisky.
Today, as one of the largest whisky communities in the world, the Friends of Laphroaig Club has members in over 180 countries. Meanwhile, Laphroaig whiskies hold prominent positions in upscale bars and clubs across the globe.
Euan Makes His Own Move
In 2022, Euan Henderson recalled his father’s experience when the opportunity came to step in as distillery manager at Speyburn Distillery. Like Laphroaig, Speyburn had a long history as a producer of quality Scotch whiskies since its founding in 1897.
But Speyburn, too, has endured many twists and turns of fortune over its long journey. And like Laphroaig in 1989, in 2022 Speyburn did not enjoy a widespread reputation outside of die-hard Scotch aficionados.
“My father was my main mentor,” Euan says. “And just as he had an opportunity to make his mark expanding Laphroaig’s reach, I saw Speyburn as offering an outstanding chance to build on a great legacy and take Speyburn to a wider group of Scotch drinkers.”
In 1992, Speyburn Distillery joined forces with Inver House Distillers, part of International Beverage Holdings. InterBev’s corporate resources and its commitment to using the finest ingredients and time-honored techniques in making excellent single malt Scotch whisky give Henderson confidence.
In addition, Speyburn’s location in Speyside in northeastern Scotland (about 60 miles from Aberdeen) also attracted Henderson’s interest. He says the region has some of the best, readily available malted barley, one of Scotch whisky’s essential ingredients.
The area’s relatively dry and warm climate is also perfect for patiently aging new whiskies in oak casks, according to Henderson. But most important is its pure, soft water.
“Granty Burn provides a unique supply of fresh, clean water,” notes Henderson, who now has 26 years in the whisky business.
The stream — or burn as the Scots call it — is a freshwater tributary of the River Spey, where fly-cast salmon fishing abounds. Granty Burn runs near the Speyburn Distillery itself, which nestles in a remote, tranquil glen (i.e., valley) amid a lush forest.
The Process
Granty Burn’s water comes into the process after the malted barley is milled and becomes grist. Henderson and his team first put the milled grist into a mash tun, an enclosed, circular copper vessel.
Heated water from the burn goes into the mash tun with the grist in cycles, with the temperatures increasing each time. This converts the starches of the grist into a sugar-rich liquid known as wort. Henderson says the interaction of pure water and grist allows the wort to carry essential elements of the final whisky.
The wort then goes into large vessels of both stainless steel and wood called washbacks. Fermentation begins as yeast contacts the wort. This produces essentially a strong beer with around 8% alcohol by volume.
The beer then goes into the primary wash still, which when heated creates an initial distillation. The alcohol evaporates at a lower temperature than the water, so the raw spirt with about 21% alcohol by volume rises and feeds into two smaller spirits stills.
There, a secondary distillation occurs. As the spirits vaporize again, they go into cooling condensers that send the liquid spirits into a safe. The best portion, known as the hearts, is kept for aging. At this point, the fiery, clear spirit has around 62% alcohol by volume, Henderson notes.
The Magic of Maturation
Then maturation begins, which Henderson says accounts for 70% of the whisky’s final character. The maturing whiskies rest in diverse types of previously used casks including American bourbon barrels, Spanish sherry barrels and rum casks. The process mellows the spirits and conveys the classic amber color of Scotch.
About 2% of the whisky — known as the “angels’ share” — evaporates each year.
Aging can take 10, 15, 16, 18 and even 25 years. Just think of how much whisky evaporates over time for those lucky angels!
When the whisky is ready for bottling, it has between 40% and 46% alcohol by volume. Single malt Scotch whiskies are distinctive in that they are bottled without blending with other spirits such as corn whiskey.
To entice Scotch enthusiasts to learn more about Speyburn Distillery, its production process and its whiskies, Euan took a page out of his late father’s playbook. In 2023, Speyburn opened its doors to consumers for the first time in its 125-year history and participated in the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.
Much to Henderson’s delight, the event sold out at Speyburn, and the distillery won accolades for hosting the Best New Event. This year, from April 30 through May 5, Speyburn will join 50 other Speyside distilleries for the 2025 festival.
Even if you cannot travel to Scotland, you can still enjoy fine Speyburn whiskies here in the United States. And the prices are excellent compared to most other top single malt whiskies.
“Our whiskies may be relatively unknown outside of Scotland, but their quality equals, in my opinion, that of other top single malt whiskies,” Henderson said. “Our whiskies deliver great quality for modest prices, so they offer excellent value.”
Worth A Sip
Try the following with just a drop or two of water to bring out the full character of the whisky:
Speyburn Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky-10 Year ($30, available in Pennsylvania from Frootbat.com) ages exclusively in used American bourbon casks. In the glass, it offers a lovely light amber color with complex aromas of citrus and ripe apples mixed with subtle spicy notes.
On the palate, delicious flavors of apple pie, toffee and citrus balance with superb, clean freshness and a tangy, beautifully balanced finish that lingers on and on. The whisky carries 40% alcohol by volume and provides a terrific introduction to Speyburn’s refined yet enjoyable, tempting style.
Speyburn Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky-15 Year ($76 at Frootbat.com) is aged in used American bourbon casks and Spanish sherry casks. The whisky’s dark amber color offers aromas of chocolate, brown spices, raisins and bright citrus.
On the palate, enticing flavors of dark chocolate, toffee, vanilla and citrus lead to a long, creamy finish that combines spicy richness and superb tanginess. The whisky is 46% ABV and offers a perfect dram to savor and enjoy on a chilly February evening.
Cheers, or as they say in Scotland, Slàinte mhat!
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.