You’re familiar with the wines of Chablis, right? But have you enjoyed the delicious wines of Bourgogne-Épineuil?
Bourgogne-Épineuil cover the hills immediately above Tonnerre, a city just ten miles east of Chablis. Both wine growing areas lie in the north of Burgundy (or “Bourgogne”), a two-hour drive southeast of Paris. But while Chablis is a large area producing singular white wines, Bourgogne-Épineuil is small appellation with a growing reputation for juicy, high quality reds.
DOMAINE DOMINIQUE GRUHIER
Bourgogne-Épineuil’s rise in recognition starts with the efforts of dedicated, terroir-focused growers such as Dominique Gruhier. This tenacious, yet amiable vigneron began his domaine in 1990. Over the years, he has overcome daunting challenges including devastating frosts and hail, tainted fermentation vats, vine maladies, a winery fire and financial pinches.
Despite the setbacks, Gruhier’s hard work always continues, and his belief in the quality of Bourgogne-Épineuil’s terroir grows with each vintage. In 2015, he obtained organic certification for his sixty acres of vines including chardonnay, pinot gris and, of course, pinot noir. He produces three delicious, vineyard-specific Bourgogne-Épineuil red wines. Each delivers remarkable quality for the price.
THE CÔTE DE GRISEY VINEYARD
Two of the red wines come from pinot noir vines growing on the steep slopes of Côte de Grisey vineyard. This site has been highly regarded since 1212 when Cistercien monks from L’Abbaye de Petit Quincy in Épineuil tended vines. Today Gruhier cultivates a total of six acres on the site.
Gruhier drives to the vineyard in his reliable old Renault. After arriving, he leads the way between two vine rows dotted with vivid red poppy flowers. He trudges halfway up the slope strewn with white rocks. Gruhier then stands astride Côtes de Grisey’s hillside explaining the site’s terroir.
South and south east exposure provides plentiful sunshine. A nearby plateau protects the vines from cold winds. Thin soils top the vineyard’s white Kimmeridgian limestone subsoils which account for the vivid white rocks. Water drains easily here. This stresses the vines and forces them to sink deeper roots.
Gruhier says this terroir makes the pinot noir vines “suffer.” This, in turn, lends good freshness and fruity purity to the wines.
“I like Côte de Grisey wines to give pleasure and have typicity,” he says. “They are the kind of wines where the bottle empties quickly so it’s easy to open a second bottle.”
DANNATS
After carefully coming down from Côte de Grisey, Gruhier drives the Renault to his other Bourgogne-Épineuil site called Dannats. The sky darkens and Gruhier fears a hail storm.
“It’s nature. It’s hard.” he notes succinctly.
No hail appears. But a few, scattered raindrops fall as he turns to the vineyard.
Dannats slopes more gently than Côte de Grisey. According to Gruhier, there is much deeper topsoil over Kimmeridgian limestone. Consequently, white stones are on the ground are les prominent here.
Gruhier says that Dannats’ pinot noir vines grow in “tranquility.” They experience none of the stress created at Côte de Grisey. He ferments the grapes in similar fashion to those from Côte de Grisey, yet Gruhier says Dannats’ different terroir gives its wines more generous fruit and softer tannins.
TASTINGS–RED WINES
The 2015 Domaine Dominique Gruhier, Bourgogne-Épineuil “Côte de Grissey” (Best U.S. retail price from The Source Imports: $23.40) offers a juicy, beautifully balanced and refined red. It is wonderfully refreshing and drinking on point now. Highly Recommended.
Gruhier’s 2015 Domaine Dominique Gruhier, Bourgogne-Épineuil “Côte de Grisey–Cuvée Juliette” (Best U.S. retail price from The Source Imports: $27.60) comes from pinot noir grapes grown on Côte de Grisey’s steepest part. The wine ferments with fifty percent whole clusters and indigenous yeast. Aging in barrels occurs with partial new oak to create little spiciness. The wine balances essential juicy red fruit with fresh acidity, good concentration and firm tannins. Gruhier named this cuvée after his first born daughter. Recommended.
The tasty 2015 Domaine Dominique Gruhier, Bourgogne-Épineuil “L’Âme des Dannats” (Average U.S. retail price on wine-searcher.com: $34) remains youthful, but its generous red fruit and fine tannins open nicely after decanting. Fermentation with whole clusters and indigenous yeasts set the wine’s fresh, red fruit personality. Aging the wine for eighteen months in barrels (with 30% new wood) added lovely, refined tannins.
The wine opens with ripe red currants aromas with spicy notes and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, soft, ripe red fruit balances with crunchy, fresh acidity and ultra-fine, silky tannins. This is a delicious and elegant, yet easy-drinking wine. Highly Recommended.
Are you familiar with either Bourgogne-Épineuil or other reds from northern Burgundy? Share your comments below and cheers!