Munich’s Oktoberfest — a two-week extravaganza of suds, sausages and singing wrapped in lederhosen pants and dirndl dresses — holds sway as the classic German harvest celebration.
And while it is true that Oktoberfest custom forbids serving wine, Germans nevertheless adore and celebrate the pleasures of the grape with a legion of wine festivals.
From May through October, every winemaking town throughout Germany’s 13 grape-growing regions hosts open-air weinfests as shown above. The village of Piesport, for example, hosts the Römisches Kelterfest (Roman Wine Press Festival) on the second weekend in October.
These public celebrations feature each host village’s distinctive traditions along with wine tastings, carnival rides, games, parades, live music and dancing for locals and tourists alike. Twinkling lights and lively wine and food stalls animate quaint marketplaces lined with half-timbered houses.
The offering of unpretentious yet well-made regional wines with relatively low alcohol by volume allows immediate enjoyment to take center stage. The dubbeglas — a dimpled wine glass that holds the equivalent of half a standard bottle of wine — figures prominently at wine festivals, especially in the Pfalz region. The dimples allow a better grasp as the glass becomes wet.
At the food stalls, savory onion and mushroom tarts, roasted chestnuts and local cheeses sell briskly. But saumagen sausage reigns supreme as the most favored delicacy. To make it, pork stomach is stuffed with finely diced potatoes, carrots, onions and pork meat seasoned with an array of herbs and spices. It might sound unappealing, but it is delicious.
To honor and enjoy the weinfest’s unpretentious, fun spirit here at home, try more widely available sausage such as bratwurst, knackwurst and weisswurst matched with the following tasty Riesling wines:
The 2022 Nik Weis, St. Urbans-Hof, Riesling, “Old Vines,” Mosel (Average Wine-Searcher U.S. price for recent vintages: $21) comes from old vines growing on steep slate vineyards overlooking the Saar River, a tributary to Germany’s famous Moselle River.
The wine is classified as a VDP Gutswein, meaning the entry level of quality wines grown from the vintner’s estate vineyards. It opens with enchanting aromas of ripe apples, peaches and pineapples. and offers uplifting flavors of ripe tropical fruit, zesty citrus and a touch of smoky mineral notes.
Fine freshness balances the fruity finish with just a kiss of sweetness and it’s only 9.5% alcohol by volume. In addition to sausage, it pairs well with baguettes, creamy cheeses and slices of crisp apples.
The 2021 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler, Bernkasteler Badstube, Riesling Kabinett, Mosel (Average Wine-Searcher U.S. price for recent vintages: $22) comes from estate-grown grapes from the Badstube vineyard in the famed Mosel village of Bernkastel. This town’s ideal grape-growing conditions — rocky soils and sunny, steep slopes — have made it perfect for winemaking since the Roman era.
This delicious and elegant wine offers classic aromas of ripe apples, tropical fruits and hints of smokiness. On the palate, vivid flavors of ripe fruits and citrus balance with zesty freshness, followed by a jolly, fruity finish with well-balanced sweetness that lingers pleasantly. It’s 9% alcohol by volume and pairs well with roasted chicken with creamy mushroom sauce.
The 2022 Weingut Haart, Riesling, Mosel (Average Wine-Searcher U.S. price for recent vintages: $25) comes from estate grapes grown near Piesport, the place where the Moselle River practically circles back on itself in a dramatic “horseshoe” bend.
This wine opens with inviting, fruity aromas of apples and peaches leavened with pleasant spicy notes. Lovely flavors of ripe peaches and citrus complement a rich vein of fresh acidity and a touch of smoky mineral notes. The fruity, well-balanced finish has a light kiss of sweetness. It’s 10.5% alcohol by volume.
Cheers!