For sheer drama in winegrowing, look no further than Sicily’s Mount Etna.
The volcano’s last major eruption in 1992 unleashed lava flows that buried vineyards and homes. Black smoke and ash from more recent but less serious eruptions have temporarily stopped air traffic. Accompanying earthquakes damaged stone-walled terraces in the vineyards.
Nonetheless, intrepid winegrowers on the island of Sicily continue toiling in Mount Etna’s vineyards, which unfurl in a semi-circular crescent running from north to south on the volcano’s eastern slopes facing the sea. Over the centuries, the volcano’s destructive lava flows have also contributed to the area’s marvelous grape growing environment.
As master sommelier John Szabo points out in his excellent book, “Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power” (Jacqui Small LLP; $45), the well-drained volcanic landscape allows vines to sink deep roots for just enough moisture. Meanwhile, relatively infertile basalt soils rich in magnesium and iron offer minimal organic matter to promote low-yielding vines with better quality grapes.
Investors Recognize Mount Etna's "sweet Spot" Vineyards
Szabo notes that planting vines in a “sweet spot” at higher altitudes (between 2,200 and 4,000 feet) on the volcano’s slopes creates an optimal climate — neither too hot nor too cool. Mount Etna rises to just over 11,000 feet.
Salubrious Mediterranean breezes also slow the grapes’ ripening. This allows the fruit to avoid over-ripening while still retaining vital freshness.
The resulting grapes combine aromatic complexity, intriguing fruitiness and powerful concentration to create the potential for well-balanced, delicious wines. This opportunity has motivated grape growers to take risks for over 3,500 years since the time of the Phoenicians to cultivate vines on Mount Etna’s flanks.
Even so, innate difficulties in working the rocky soil add another side to the drama. Until the last 30 years, manual labor shortages made commercial wine production virtually impossible. Not enough hands were available to prune the vines, clear volcanic debris and preserve stone terraces. Many vineyard owners either abandoned the vines completely or maintained just enough to provide wine for family consumption.
In the 1990s, the situation slowly started to change as outside investors recognized the value of Mount Etna’s distinctive vineyards. The region’s unique indigenous grape varieties stand apart in global markets awash in cabernet and chardonnay wines.
You might say that Mount Etna wines are now “hot” properties. The wines, at their best, blend freshness and quality for value appealing both to consumers and to sommeliers searching for delicious bottles with personality.
You, too, can take a dramatic step towards pleasure. Simply try the following wines from Mount Etna.
Mount Etna Red and White Wines To Try
The 2022 Pietro Caciorgna, Etna Rosso “Ciaurìa,” Italy ($21.99, PLCB No. 32734) comes from Nerello Mascalese, Mount Etna’s premier red wine grape that grows on the volcano’s northern and northeastern slopes. The vines are planted in alberello style, meaning each vine has a single, main root stock supported by a tall wooden stack.
This enables the vines to withstand blustery winds that frequently prevail on Mount Etna. It also requires head pruning by hand as the vine develops like a squat bush.
After manual harvest, the grapes ferment in stainless-steel tanks and then age in previously used oak barrels. The resulting wine’s ruby color offers bright red fruit aromas with intriguing spicy, meaty notes.
On the palate, delicious, ripe strawberry and raspberry fruit with medium concentration balances with zesty freshness and soft tannins. It goes well with pasta with a light red sauce with garlic, green olives and capers.
The 2022 Terrazze dell’Etna, “Ciuri,” Terre Siciliane Bianco, Italy ($24.99, PLCB No. 39411) is a “blanc de noir” still wine — that is, a white wine that comes from red-skinned Nerello Mascalese grapes growing on the volcano’s northwestern slopes. The grapes come from younger vines harvested relatively early in mid-September.
The wine retains its white color because the juice is pressed before it ferments, on the grape skins. After fermentation, the wine ages in stainless-steel tanks on the lees (i.e., spent yeast) to add creamy texture.
On the nose, aromas of tropical fruit and citrus unfold. On the palate, bright, fruity citrus and mango flavors meld nicely with pleasant creamy accents and zesty, fresh acidity. The wine finishes fruity, yet essentially dry. Try as an aperitif with bruschetta topped with olive oil, herbs and capers.
The 2022 Cusumano Alta Mora, Etna Bianco, Italy ($24.99, PLCB No. 37117) comes from carricante, a native Sicilian grape variety that’s trained both in espalier (where the vines are trained against low stone walls) and alberello. The relatively high altitude of the vineyards permits full ripening without a loss of freshness.
The wine’s pretty, light yellow color offers attractive lemon and herbal aromas. On the palate, zesty citrus flavors with medium body layer with intriguing creamy notes carrying through the dry, lingering finish. Pair this tasty white wine with either broiled halibut or a Salade Niçoise.
Cheers!
Finally, Dave, I can say that the PLCB has initiated in me some of the envy that you might have when I comment about wines in France that never arrive in the Commonwealth that you call home. I’d love to taste these wine from Mt. Etna, but I’ll either have to make my long-awaited trip to Sicily or wait until I’m back in PA. Thanks for this interesting post.
Cheers mon ami!