The saga of Cantina di Tortona in northwestern Italy’s Piemonte region is a story of tenacity and economic survival, both for winegrowers and a unique grape.
Winegrowers collectively own the Cantina di Tortona as a cooperative. The unique grape is Timorasso.
In 1931, the farmers and winegrowers of the Tortona hills in southeastern Piemonte faced a worldwide economic depression. The economics of growing grapes and making wine were fraught with difficulties as consumer demand slackened. Bankruptcies spiked ominously. Many farmers contemplated leaving the land and seeking employment in nearby cities such as Torino and Genoa.
But 38 hearty souls decided to band together and form a wine-growing cooperative. The grape farmers pooled resources to create just one winemaking facility headed by a single winemaker, reducing costs. It also ensured a ready buyer for the farmers’ grapes after each harvest. And if the cooperative made a profit, then each farmer as a partial owner shared in the upside.
They named the enterprise after Tortona, the region’s principal city with a long history stretching back to the Romans, who recognized the area as a key crossroads.
The famed Barolo grape-growing region lies in rolling hills to the west. Lombardy, with its capital of Milano and wide, fertile plains, lies to the east. The important port city of Genoa is to the south. The Apennine Mountains raise up from the south and peter out in the Tortona area.
As a result, the hills south of Tortona boast a wide variety of topography and microclimates. The soils are varied, and the influences of the Mediterranean Sea are also a factor. Both white and red grapes grow well here. The area is also well known for its famed white and black truffles along with various cheeses and fruits.
It would have been a shame to abandon Tortona’s agricultural way of life in the face of the economic depression of the 1930s. The Cantina di Tortona allowed the grape farmers to continue through the tough times. Romolo Vimercati, the first winemaker, managed the cooperative from 1931 through 1961.
Today, descendants of the founders continue with the Cantina di Tortona. In fact, the cooperative has expanded to over 240 grape growers. The cantina’s focus is on making high-quality wines to compete in international markets.
Timorasso grapes
During the Roman era, Tortona was known as Derthona Julia. During the Middles Ages, the Timorasso grape, used to make white wines, gained the nickname of Derthona.
Cultivation of the grape continued into the 20th century. But industrialization and economic depression did not treat Timorasso kindly. By the early 1980s, it had become virtually extinct even though it is an indigenous variety in the hills of Tortona.
Then winegrower Walter Massa entered the picture. He discovered 1 acre of Timorasso vines in his family’s vineyards and experimented with making a 100% Timorasso white wine in 1987.
Word slowly spread of the wine’s qualities — complex, enticing aromas, rich, sumptuous texture and delicious flavors wrapped in freshness. And it could age gracefully in the bottle. Critics and consumers alike approved, and Massa had a hit on his hands.
Fast forward to present day, and Timorasso production has taken off. Over 60 wineries now cultivate 750 acres of vines while producing over 100,000 cases of wine, Robert Camuto reported in Wine Spectator in 2023. Most of the bottles carry the name Derthona, the Romans’ old name for Tortona.
Cantina di Tortona is part of the Timorasso resurgence. Consider the 2022 Cantina di Tortona, Bianco Piccolo Derthona (distributed by Barsotti Wines in the Strip District, barsottiwines.com).
Partners Jason Sicher and Becca Baronzzi now run day-to-day operations at Barsotti Wines after founders Joe and Ruth Barsotti have turned more to travelling.
“The Tortona Piccolo Derthona is such a great wine, but customers still aren’t really aware of it,” Sicher said. “It’s a perfect example of wine with terrific quality and value that goes perfectly with lots of Italian dishes.”
“Our restaurant accounts love it when they taste,” Baronzzi said. “But they have to hand sell it to their customers.”
Veteran Chef Greg Alauzen’s team at LeoGretta in Carnegie has paired the wine with the restaurant’s fresh and simple family recipes featuring handpicked ingredients and homemade pastas.
Severina Restaurant and Bar in West View has offered Tortona Piccolo Derthona. Apericena: A Wine Bar in Upper St. Clair, Talia in Downtown and Fish nor Fowl in Garfield have also ordered Cantina di Tortona wines from Barsotti Wines.
“This is one of the most interesting white wines that I have ever tasted from Piemonte,” said Nick Biondi, a veteran wine sales professional with Barsotti Wines who works with Severina. “The wine offers tropical fruit, citrus and mineral notes with a full-bodied flavor and lingering finish. It’s great paired with seafood and lighter meat dishes.”
The wine also pairs well with Pasta Carbonara, a dish with a creamy sauce made with cheese, eggs, pancetta and black pepper.
Cantina di Tortona red wine
As delicious as the Piccolo Derthona may be, the Piemonte region is best known for its red wines made from Nebbiolo grapes. The region also provides a terrific terroir for growing the often overlooked and undervalued Dolcetto grape.
The 2022 Cantina di Tortona, Dolcetto, Colli Tortonesi (also distributed by Barsotti Wines) is an enticing red loaded with ripe black fruits and earthy notes. On the palate, the wine delivers plenty of freshness and medium body with fine, pronounced tannins.
It is a classic pairing with dishes such as pasta with a light red sauce or the Piemonte classic, slowly braised Veal Osso Bucco.