Dave’s Wine Tips: Delicious Loire Reds Served Chilled

Crisp white wines from France’s Loire Valley make a good choice just about any time. But don’t forget to consider Loire Valley red wines. They, too, deliver plenty of delicious, fruity refreshment served slightly chilled.

Loire Valley red wines come primarily from cabernet franc grapes (referred to as “Breton” in the Loire Valley). Other less prevalent red-skinned Loire varieties include gamay, grolleau, pinot d’anuis, pinot noir and malbec. All the vines benefit from the region’s diverse and distinctive growing conditions.

RED GRAPE GROWING IN THE LOIRE VALLEY

Unpredictable spring frosts frequently create soul-searching challenges for Loire Valley grape growers. A few nights of frosts can destroy budding vines.

But not all is gloom. Beginning near the Atlantic Ocean around the city of Nantes and running eastward up the Loire River to the city of Tours, a relatively mild and sunny climate generally prevails during the core growing season. Red-skinned grapes. ripen nicely.

In addition, on the ground, a combination of gravel, sands and clay cover rocky geology. These include slates, schists, volcanic rocks, hard limestone and chalk. This creates great potential for growing intriguing red grapes.

To take full advantage of this distinctive terroir, the best Loire red wine growers work relentlessly to control grape yields while maintaining commercial viability. Their goal is clear: produce top-quality grapes with intriguing aromas, pure ripe fruit and good acidity for freshness.

After high-quality fruit has been harvested and sorted, then doing the least amount of intervention in the winery becomes critical. The tastiest Loire reds ferment with native yeasts rather than commercially engineered yeasts that manipulate aromas and flavors. Also the most gulpable wines receive minimal aging in oak barrels to preserve pure fruitiness.

Because Loire Valley red wines remain relatively obscure in the American market, good values abound on quality wines.Consider the following tasty bottles:

BOURGUEIL 

The 2017 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie, Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes,” (Average U.S. Price on wine-searcher.com: $18.00) comes from cabernet franc vines growing on a limestone plateau covered with sand and clay. According to the domaine’s American importer, Kermit Lynch, the location’s direct southern exposure allows the grapes to ripen fully. This maximizes red fruitiness and minimizes the “greenness” found in under ripe cabernet franc fruit.

The grapes ferment in temperature-controlled stainless tanks to capture full fruitiness. Afterwards, aging occurs exclusively in steel tanks as well to highlight the fruit. The wine offers appealing blackberry and floral aromas with a touch of bell pepper. In the glass, juicy red fruit balances with fresh acidity and supple, refined tannins. Delicious and gulpable. Highly Recommended.

SAUMUR

The idiom in the name of the delicious 2016 Domaine de L’Enchantoir, Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame “Le Pied à l’Étrier,” France (Average U.S. Price on wine-searcher.com: $19.00) hints at the untamed, exhilarating wine to come in the glass. “Le Pied à l’Étrier ” translates to “the foot in the stirrup.”

The wine comes from cabernet franc grapes grown organically in chalky limestone. Fermentation occurred with native yeasts to enable the wine’s natural, authentic personality to unfold. Bottling with minimal additions of sulfites again allows the fruit’s raw, unadorned personality to shine. And shine it does.

Ripe raspberry and strawberry aromas lead the way. Touches of meatiness and earthiness add intriguing notes. Pure, raw red and black fruit flavors unfold on the palate balanced by lively, crunchy acidity and firm tannins. It’s an exuberant, gutsy wine of terrific lingering pleasure. Highly Recommended.

VIN DE PAYS DU VAL DE LOIRE

The 2018 Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles, Gamay, Vin de Pays du Val de Loire, France (Average U.S. Price on wine-searcher.com: $14.00) comes from a vineyard near the Atlantic Ocean where the Loire River finally empties out. Rather than using cabernet franc, this wine comes from Gamay. The grapes grow organically in sandy soils with mica-schist, a type of foliated rock with colorful quartz and mica.

After harvest by hand, the gamay fruit went through initial carbonic maceration, which is a fancy technical term indicating fermentation occurring in a closed tank. The process captures unabashed fruitiness and softens the wine’s texture. The grower succeeded admirably.

The wine’s vibrant bright red color unfolds red cherry and violet aromas. Juicy red fruit flavors follow with plenty of freshness and a soft, fruity finish with just a touch of fine tannins. Chill it and enjoy. Highly Recommended.

Bourgueil Rosé from France’s Loire Valley

PINK WINE

The Loire Valley also offers soft and fruity, yet essentially dry, rosés that deliver tremendous refreshment. Try the 2018 Domaine les Pins, Bourgueil Rosé “Cuvée Les Rochettes,” (Average U.S. Pirce on wine-searcher.com: $15.00). The fruit comes from the Bourgueil appellation where written records show Benedictine monks systematically cultivating the vineyards as early as 1089. Records from 1152 refer to “Breton” or cabernet franc grapes. This delicious wine comes from 100% cabernet franc grown in gravelly soils.

Consequently, the lovely salmon pink color offers fresh floral and red fruit aromas. Refreshing strawberry and citrus flavors with medium concentration balance with superb freshness. The wine finishes clean and fruity. Highly Recommended.

Do you have a favorite Loire Valley red wine? Please your tips in the comments below and cheers!

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