If you like Chardonnay-based wines with enticing aromas, rich flavors and exquisite freshness, then it’s hard to beat the delightful wines from the village of Puligny-Montrachet in Burgundy, France. But as collectors the world over clamor for the wines, prices have climbed uncomfortably. Wines from Puligny-Montrachet’s famous grand cru vineyards and its seventeen premier cru vineyards fetch hundreds of dollars per bottle. So if you simply wants a taste of an exquisite Puligny-Montrachet white wine without taking out a loan, what can you do?
The answer is to focus on the entry level bourgogne régionale wines from the village’s top producers. These wines deliver superb quality, and their prices typically fall under $30 per bottle. The main difference with bourgogne régionale wines comes from the location of the vines.
Puligny-Montrachet’s grand cru and premier cru vineyards lie above the village on gentle slopes with shallow top soils covering rich deposits of underlying limestone. Meanwhile the best bourgogne régionale wines typically come from vines located below the village, just outside the boundary for “official” Puligny-Montrachet classification. Trust me, it’s a bureaucractic French thing tied to the notion of terroir.
In general, the bourgogne régionale sites have flatter topology and heavier topsoils containing more clay than limestone. Consequently, there is less potential to achieve the concentration and length found in well-made grand cru and premier cru wines.
Nevertheless, conscientious producers lavish their bourgogne régionale vines with dedicated hard work and attention to detail similar to their approach in the more famous vineyards. Top producers take just as much professional pride in their less prestigious wines, and this creates outstanding buying opportunities for savvy drinkers to enjoy delicious wines. Consider the following tasty selections perfect for enjoyment with grilled fish and summertime sipping.
FRANÇOIS CARILLON.
François Carillon comes a family with roots in Puligny-Montrachet dating to 1611. Today he farms vineyards mainly in Puligny-Montrachet’s prestigious vineyards, but also in the next village to the north, Meursault.
For the delicious 2017 François Carillon, Bourgogne Chardonnay, he uses Chardonnay grapes from two plots in Puligny-Montrachet and another in Meursault. The vines—ranging in age between 33 and 66 years old—grow primarily in clay soils with significant limestone as well. Instead of applying herbicides in the vineyards, Carillon removes all weeds by plowing. He fertilizers the vines with only organic products.
In the cellar, the fruit ferments in mostly neutral oak barrels (only 10% of the barrels are new wood). Then the new wines age for nearly a year in the barrels with light stirring of the lees.
The wine’s light golden, straw color offers classic Puligny-Montrachet white wines aromas. Intoxicating white flower and ripe white peach aromas meld with light smoky hints.
On the palate, delicious citrus, peach and light pineapple flavors balance with superb freshness and medium concentration with subtle creamy notes. The wine finishes fruity and dry. The finish may not be as long and lingering as Carillon’s magnificent Puligny-Montrachet “Les Folatières” 1er cru. But the 2017 François Carillon, Bourgogne Chardonnay (average national U.S. price on wine-searcher.com: $25) still gives a delicious taste of the authentic, delicate personality of Puligny-Montrachet white wines at their best.
PAUL PERNOT ET SES FILS:
With a ruddy complexion and no nonsense, direct communicating style, Paul Pernot embodies the old-school” winegrower. Strongly opinionated and affable talking about his wines, nevertheless he always has been more at home in the vines where he started working in 1959 as a teenager. His sons, Michel and Paul, along with a grandson, now take a leading role.
The large domaine cultivates nearly 6o acres of vines, mostly in Puligny-Montrachet. Much of the fruit goes to négociants such as Maison Joseph Drouhin. But the domaine takes great pride in producing top quality wines for its large production of bourgogne régionale Chardonnay (around 25,000 bottles in good years).
The 2018 Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Côte d’Or Chardonnay (PLCB code #81087: $29.99; average national U.S. price on wine-searcher.com: $29) comes from three parcels located to the north of the village towards Meursault. The wine’s yellow, straw color with green glints offers aromas of white flowers, citrus and light yeast notes. In the glass, apple, citrus and vanilla flavors balance with excellent freshness and pleasant creamy notes.
The wine dry and elegant finish lingers pleasantly. It offers the kind of beautiful balance of concentrated fruit and freshness that makes Puligny-Montrachet white wines so enthralling.
Do you have a favorite, go-to Bourgogne Chardonnay wine? Share your thoughts in the comments section below and cheers!
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