Dave’s Wine Tips: Drinking Gueguen Bourgogne Rosé Pinot Noir For Refreshment

For crisp, refreshing rosés, images of sunny southern France come readily to mind. The region’s wealth of familiar choices include Provence’s “pink” wines and Tavel’s delicious, full flavored dark rosés.

But believe it or not, winegrowers far to the north in Burgundy also offer mighty tasty, thirst-quenching rosés. Consider, for example the 2019 Domaine Céline and Frédéric Gueguen, Bourgone Rosé Pinot Noir (average national retail price on wine-searcher.com: $16; Pennsylvania Liquor Control Code 82810: $17.99), a wine made from 100% pinot noir.

NORTHERN BURGUNDY ROSÉ FROM DOMAINE GUEGUEN

Céline and Frédéric Gueguen, a husband and wife winemaking team, grew up steeped in winegrowing. Their respective families have deep roots in the famed white wine village of Chablis. In 2013, the couple boldly decided to start their own domaine based in Préhy, a village just a few miles southwest of Chablis.

As might be expected, the Gueguen’s make very tasty Chablis wines. But they also work in nearby appellations which excel in red wine production. In the 19th century, this part of Burgundy known as the “Grand Auxerrois” produced tremendous amounts of red wine that were shipped down the Yonne River to thirsty Parisians. Despite a precipitous drop in production during the 20th century, the fundamental potential for growing quality red wine grapes remains in “Grand Auxerrois” vineyards.

Here in Burgundy’s northern reaches, cold spring weather, sunny summers and warm autumns create excellent but often challenging grapegrowing conditions. Mother Nature must cooperate as she did in the 2019 vintage. Outstanding weather without damaging hail storms created an especially good year for red-skinned grapes. This created the opportunity to make a delicious dry rosé.

The 2019 Domaine Gueguen, Bourgogne Rosé Pinot Noir comes from vines growing outside the village of Saint-Bris-le-Vineuse. The vines’ locations on north and west facing slopes limit direct sun exposure. Consequently, the pinot noir fruit ripens slowly while retaining plenty of fresh acidity. In addition, the Portlandian limestone soils in the vineyards contribute to the bright, fresh fruitiness. Natural freshness is crucial in producing tasty, high quality dry rosé.

After the pinot noir grapes were mechanically harvested at a relatively modest yield of 40 hectoliters per hectare, they went directly to a gentle pressing. The wine picked up a delicate, enchanting pink color.

To capture fruity freshness, fermentation occurred with indigenous yeasts in neutral stainless steel tanks. The new wine then rested in tanks on the fine lees for about six months to add subtle body and richness. During this time, malolactic secondary fermentation also softened the wine’s sharp edges.

In the glass, the wine’s pink color offers enticing  strawberry and peach aromas. On the palate, the wine delivers juicy red fruit and grapefruit flavors. Refreshing acidity and a touch of creaminess balance the dry, fruity finish.

Served well-chilled, the wine’s fruity freshness makes an excellent partner with  a bowl of Mexican beans and rice topped with spicy chorizo sausage and creamy chipotle sauce.

OTHER DELICIOUS BOURGOGNE ROSÉS

Other delicious Burgundy rosés include:

2019 Domaine Chevrot et Fils, Bourgogne Rosé “Sakura” (available from Chambers Street Wines for $25.99): The brothers Chevrot have vineyards in and around Maranges in the southern most tip of Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. For this delightful wine, they use organically cultivated pinot noir grapes. Aromas of red raspberries and a touch of brown spices open to juicy red fruit flavors. Refreshing acidity balances a fruity, soft finish. Pair it with a picnic salad of minced ham, chopped red peppers and elbow macaroni tossed with olive oil.

2018 Domaine Bruno Clair, Marsannay Rosé (National average price on wine-searcher.com: $30) is actually a village designated rosé wine, as opposed to a “Bourgogne régionale” wine. The style originated immediately after World War One when Bruno Clair’s grandfather needed sales just to keep the winery doors open in Marsannay. He developed an easy drinking, exuberant café wine to sell in volume in nearby Dijon, and the style became popular.

Today one hundred years later, Clair uses 100% pinot noir grapes. About 1/3 of the fruit is pressed directly to capture clean, fresh fruitiness. The other 2/3 of the grapes macerate on the skins for up to 72 hours to pick up more color, richer aromas and more concentration. The resulting wine has a deep salmon red color with forward aromas of cherries and strawberries. The wine’s ripe red fruit balances beautifully with fresh acidity.

It makes a perfect bistro wine. I recall in 2018 enjoying lunch at L’Auberge du Vieux Pressoir‘s peaceful, shaded terrasse in Chenôve, Burgundy. Chef Simon’s “perfectly poached egg” in a cream sauce with crémant de bourgogne, mushrooms and jambon ham paired beautifuly with the Domaine Bruno Clair, Marsannay Rosé.

 

Do you have a favorite dry rosé wine? Have you tried a dry rosé from Burgundy? Please share your thoughts below and cheers!