Growing Vitis vinifera grapes on Lake Erie’s frigid, often snow-swept shores requires fearlessness, patience, and imagination. Having a wry sense of humor helps, too. Erie winegrower Doug Moorhead (1943-2021), who passed away on June 10, 2021, embodied these qualities. He succeeded in producing outstanding table wines made from Vitis vinifera and French Hybrid grapes. All the while, he encouraged and supported professional and amateur winemakers alike.
GRAPE GROWING ROOTS
Doug grew up in the town of North East in Erie County in a family growing Concord grapes next to Lake Erie. The grapes were used in producing sweet grape juice and jelly. They also grew cherries, peaches, plums and apples.
After completing degrees at Pennsylvania State University in Horticulture and Fruit Growing, Moorhead served in the army in Germany from 1956-1958. There he saw firsthand Vitis vinifera grapes growing successfully in a cold climate that reminded him of home. He resolved to try making Pennsylvania commercial wines using French Hybrid varieties and classic European Vitis vinifera grapes such as Riesling.
RENAISSANCE OF COMMERCIAL PENNSYLVANIA WINES
Back home, Doug experimented in the family vineyards and worked closely with Eastern wine pioneers Dr. Konstantin Frank and Philip Wagner. He constantly furthered his knowledge of vinifera viticulture and varieties that could thrive in Lake Erie’s climate. Meanwhile with a partner, Doug founded Presque Isle Wine Cellars in 1964 as a winemaking supplies business for home winemakers. At the time, he could not legally produce commercial wines since the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board held a monopoly on selling commercial wines in the Commonwealth. Moorhead was undeterred.
Through persistent political lobbying, the Pennsylvania Legislature in 1968 passed the Pennsylvania Limited Winery Act, a law that enabled aspiring Pennsylvania producers to sell their commercial wines outside of the PLCB monopoly system. This set the foundation today’s Pennsylvania wine industry with over 300 licensed wineries producing over 12 million gallons of wine annually. In most years, Pennsylvania typically lags only behind California, Washington, and New York in wine production.
THE LAKE ERIE EFFECT AND QUALITY
As Doug discovered, a condition known as the “Lake Effect” supported his hunch about successfully growing quality Vitis vinifera grapes near Lake Erie. The best Lake Erie vineyards lie near the Lake in the narrow band below the hills and high ridges south of the lakeshore. This small “escarpment” creates a distinct micro climate where the large mass of lake water holds heat from the summer to moderate local temperatures. It also bathes the vines with warm autumn breezes. Consequently the growing season is extended since initial frosts are typically delayed into November.
Additionally, the lake moderates winter’s harsh low temperatures just enough to allow Vitis vinifera vines to survive. Conversely, the”Lake Effect” keeps the area cooler into the spring, delaying first budding until past the typical last frost date. Overall with the “Lake Effect,” the Lake Erie terroir resembles the New York Finger Lakes where Vitis vinifera vines now grow successfully.
That said, growing Vitis vinifera grapes near Lake Erie still presents challenges. Plenty of rain creates dampness and the prospect of rot. But Doug Moorhead persisted, and today Doug’s son, Eric, runs Presque Isle Wine Cellars. Bob Green makes the wines which consistently win awards in commercial competitions.
For example, try the winery’s flagship wine, the 2019 Presque Isle Wine Cellars, Riesling, Lake Erie ($14.99). To capture freshness, the wine fermented in stainless steel tanks without malolactic secondary fermentation. Its golden color offers classic citrus and peach aromas. On the palate, the wine has plenty of richness with juicy flavors of grapefruit, peaches and brown spices. Fresh acidity delivers terrific balance through the juicy finish with just a hint of sweetness. Only 11.3 % alcohol by volume. Highly Recommended.
The 2019 Presque Isle Wine Cellars, Grüner Veltliner, Lake Erie ($18.99) won a Double Gold Medal at the pious restig2021 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. The wine’s light straw color offers classic aromas of limes and white pepper along with floral and pear notes. On the palate, crisp citrus and pear flavors follow balanced by zesty acidity and delicious creaminess. The wine finishes fruity, but crisp and dry. 12.0% a.b.v. Delightful! Highly Recommended.
NO WINE SNOB
Lest you think Doug Moorhead was a wine snob, he was quite the opposite. As a farmer and winemaker at heart, he knew just how difficult it is to make excellent wine from any grape variety. Doug’s humility and wisdom were on full display when I joined him judging amateur wines for the American Wine Society, an organization that he supported enthusiastically.
Several flights of dry Concord wines awaited us. These wines were made from the same native American grapes used for primarily for jelly and sweet juice drinks. I was skeptical, but followed Doug’s approach by quietly sniffing, tasting and objectively evaluating each wine against the regular standards.
Most of the wines were mediocre, but after 36 wines, several outstanding dry Concords emerged. I expressed a little surprise. But Doug reminded me of an importance lesson that I always try to follow.
“You should appreciate well made wines whenever and where ever you find them,” he noted.
Wise advice indeed. Judge every wine for what you discover in the glass rather than looking to the names, label and origins. Thank you, Doug, for your leadership and for creating great memories sharing wines. Rest In Peace and Cheers.
CELEBRATION OF DOUG MOORHEAD’S LIFE
The Moorhead family will hold a casual celebration of Doug’s life at Preseque Isle Winery at 9440 W Main Road, North East, PA from 10 AM to 4 PM on Saturday, June 26. The invitation reads, “All who knew or were affected by Doug and his work who would like to come and pay respects and share memories are welcome. There will be an open mike from noon to 2 PM for anyone who wishes to publicly share personal memories or stories about Doug…and there will be wine. This will not be an overly formal affair so casual dress is fine. Kids, grandkids, and well-behaved dogs are welcome.”