When it comes to southern Rhône red wines, the serene commune of Visan does not jump immediately to mind. The low profile exists in large part because Visan lies around 40 kilometers (i.e., 25 miles) northeast of the popular tourist stop of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Despite being tucked way, marvelous grape growing terroir prevails in Visan. Energetic and dedicated winegrowers such as Jean-Paul Depeyre and Sylvie Spitz of Clos du Père Clément capitalize by offering outstanding Rhône reds worthy of recognition and enjoyment.
A LIFE IN THE VINES AND CELLAR
Jean-Paul ‘s grandfather, Clément, cultivated vines on the estate, but he also grew the beautiful fruits of Provence, such as apples, peaches, melons and tomatoes. Like many estate owners at the time, Clément did not vinify and bottle his own commercial wines. Nonetheless, Jean-Paul grew up around grapevines, and he often helped in the wine cellar in Visan where his grandfather made wines for the family’s private enjoyment.
Jean-Paul’s father, Henri, carried on pretty much where Clément left off with mixed agriculture on the estate. Then in 1972, Henri took the plunge and installed his sons Jean-Paul and Gérard as independent winegrowers working the vines, fermenting the grapes and ultimately bottling and marketing their own commercial wines. They called the estate “Clos du Père Clément” in honor of the grandfather.
From the beginning, they cultivated their vines—primarily Grenache and Syrah with some Cairgnan and Mourvèdre—with a non-certified organic approach, that is, without synthetic chemical applications. Sales occurred primarily at the winery boutique and through wine retailers in France. In the mid-2010’s, Gérard retired and his daughter took responsibility for the vines in neighboring Tulette under a separate estate, Domaine Corrine Depeyre. Jean-Paul continues today at Clos du Père Clément.
A NEW TEAM AT CLOS DU PÈRE CLÉMENT
In 2013, Jean-Paul met Sylvie Spitz, a Belgian native, who studied to be a sommelier and wine marketing professional at the nearby University in Suze-la-Rousse. They married in 2016 and now work as a team managing the estate. Sylvie focuses on marketing and sales, and Jean-Paul works in the vines and wine cellar. Their ever present feline companion adds charm and an affable welcome in all areas of the estate.
The Clos du Père Clément estate centers around a 17th century stone farm house typical of the rural Provence countryside. It serves as a popular guest house with a small swimming pool. The winery itself sits immediately next door with an ample production facility and a small aging cellar. Heady Provençal aromas of lavender, wild thyme, rosemary and scrub pine typically scent the air to make the estate all the more attractive and appealing.
ENDURING TERROIR PROVIDES THE KEY TO QUALITY
The surrounding vineyard terroir consists mainly of clay and limestone subsoils covered with plenty of stones and rocks. The estate’s sea of vines unfurls on gentle hillsides and slopes with both northern and southern sun exposures.
The Romans recognized Visan terroir’s terrific potential by cultivating grape vines. Records also show that as early 1250 Visan had a communal grape press. Later the Knights Templar entered into control, and in 1344 Visan became part of a Papal territory known as the L’Enclave de Papes (the “Enclave of the Popes”) as the Papcy moved to Avignon. In 1475, the Confrérie des Vignerons de Visan, one of France’s first professional winegrowing associations, was founded.
In short, Visan’s tradition as a grape growing paradise is undeniable. Jean-Paul and Sylvie fully appreciate their situation.
“We are lucky in Visan to have plenty of sun and also the mistral wind,” Sylvie notes. “We call the mistral our doctor of the vines, because it weeps away diseases.”
Since 2015, the estate’s Visan wines have been certified as “Biologique,” i.e., made from organically grown grapes. The wines consistently win awards in international competitions. That said, sales at the onsite boutique remain strong. Jean-Paul and Sylvie enjoy the direct interaction with clients, both local and from around Europe and beyond.
“We try to make the wines that we love ourselves and that also give pleasure to our client friends,” says Sylvie who speaks several languages as she welcomes guests at the estate.
The following delicious reds are outstanding and highly recommended with classic Provençal dishes such as roasted leg of lamb with garlic and herbs and beef daube stew with red wine and herbs.
THE WINES
2019 Clos du Père Clément, “Cuvée Père Clément,” Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages–Visan: This wine comes from mainly lusciously ripe Grenache (80%) with a healthy dash of Syrah (10%) and splashes of Carignan and Mourvèdre. The wine matured for six months in previously used French oak barrels. Its purple-dark ruby color offers ripe black berry and réglisse (black liquorice) aromas with enticing notes of wild herbs and smoked meats. Rich black cherry fruit follows on palate balanced by fresh acidity and fine tannins that carry a long, fine finish. A medium-bodied, well-balanced wine with no rough edges. Drink up. Delicious!
2015 Clos du Père Clément, “Cuvée Notre Dame,” Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages–Visan: This wine blends ripe Grenache (80%) with Syrah (15%) and Carignan. It fermented and aged in stainless steel vats to capture a fruit forward personality. Its dark ruby red color delivers aromas of ripe blackberries with nuances of wild herbs, white pepper and smoked meats. On the palate, ripe raspberry and brown spices balance with zesty freshness and fine, soft tannins. This medium bodied wine bursts with pure fruitiness and unabashed pleasure. Could be served with a slight chill. Yum, yum! Miam, miam! The wine’s name comes from the Chapelle Notre Dame des Vignes, an ancient historic chapel just a short distance from the estate.
2015 Clos du Père Clément, “Cuvée Saint Clément,” Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages–Visan: This wine blends primarily Sprah (95%) with Grenache. It fermented and aged in stainless steel vats to capture the essence of the powerful, spicy Syrah fruit. Its dark ruby color delivers aromas of ripe plums and réglisse (black liquorice) with notes of brown spices and pepper. On the palate, ripe black cherries and black liquorice flavors layer with tremendous, pure freshness and sturdy, yet fine tannins. The wines has richness and depth but also has very fine balance. Excellent!
A WHITE WINE
Even with Visan’s plentiful sunshine and warm climate, Jean-Paul Depeyre produces a nicely balanced white wine. In this case, the delicious 2019 Clos du Père Clément, Viognier, I.G.P. Drôme uses 100% organically grown Viognier that Jean-Paul Depeyre ferments and ages in older oak barrels with the lees. The wine’s golden color offers lovely floral, citrus and spice aromas. In the glass, ripe, lush flavors of white peaches and tangerines balance with zesty freshness and subtle creamy notes. The long dry finish has beautiful balance. Lovely wine. Cheers!
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