Way back in the 1990s, when I began visiting “Burgundy,” as it was then commonly called, in France, it was not so easy to navigate the region’s many wine producers, villages and restaurants. There was little readily available information on the internet.
English was rarely spoken and arranging tastings at the many small, family-owned domaines was challenging (no smart phones or Google maps). It was common to become hopelessly confused in the narrow lanes of the region’s villages.
Thirty years later, the situation has changed completely. The region reclaimed its proper name of Bourgogne, the name that was used universally for hundreds of years dating to the Middle Ages. (When you think about it, burgundy is a color, not a proper name.)
GPS maps are easy to come by, and so is information in English on the region’s wines, thanks to Cécile Mathiaud and her colleagues at the Bourgogne Wine Board (bourgogne-wines.com).
Setting visits to small, family owned domaines has also become much easier with its Tourists’ Cellar Guide, a list of 260 domaines that happily accept appointments.
One of the website’s best features is a 13-minute video, “The Vineyards of Bourgogne Seen From the Sky.” This colorful video provides a comprehensive “fly over” presentation that begins in the southernmost region of Mâcon, then north through the famous Côte D’Or and ends in the northern vineyards in and around Chablis and Auxerre.
To obtain the most enjoyment out of the video, get the Vins de Bourgogne Wine Regions map and have it available while watching the video. Then to really have fun, open a few bottles of tasty Bourgogne wines to drink as you watch the video. Here are a few suggestions on what to drink:
Mâcon
In Mâcon in the southernmost part of Bourgogne, Chardonnay is the primary grape variety planted, although red wines made from Gamy and Pinot Noir also are found. As the video notes, a vast inland sea covered the entire region millions of years ago, so there is plenty of limestone in the soils, which is perfect for growing the Chardonnay grape.
Pouilly-Fuissé is the most famous appellation followed by Pouilly-Loché, Pouilly-Vinzelles and Saint-Veran. The Roche de Solutré, a massive limestone outcropping rising over 1,600 feet, dominates the area. Today, Pouilly-Fuissé boasts further sub-classifications with premier crus.
For starters, try the 2022 Domaine Gilles Noblet, Pouilly-Fuissé “La Collonge” (Available nationwide on wine-searcher for $35). This family-owned domaine takes a hands-on approach and has old vines, some up to 75 years old. A portion of the wine ages in oak barrels to add body and toasty notes. On the nose, aromas of citrus, white flowers and honey unfold. The palate offers citrus and apple flavors with toasty, creamy accents.
When it comes to Mâcon red wines made from Gamay grapes, do not miss the wines of Cécile & Laurent Tripoz, Domaine Broux-Guillot and Clos des Vignes du Maynes from Julien Guillot. All are available nationally at wine-searcher.com.
Côte Chalonnaise
Moving north, the fly-over video next covers the Côte Chalonnaise, a diverse region planted with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gamay, and Aligoté vines. Since this sub-region does not enjoy the widespread fame of other Bourgogne appellations, there are plenty of great wines offering both quality and value.
At one time, the red wines of Givry (not to be confused with Gevrey located farther north) were highly prized by the kings of France. As in most of Bourgogne, hardworking monks in the Middle Ages charted the best vineyards to grow Pinot Noir grapes to produce exquisite, beautifully balanced red wines.
Try the delicious 2022 Domaine Michel Sarrazin et Fils Givry “Sous La Roche” (Available nationwide on wine-searcher for $37 on average). This family domaine traces its roots back to the 1600s. The current proprietors, the Sarrazin brothers, work in a lovely stone winery and château in Jambles, a hamlet perched high above the town of Givry.
This wine comes from organically grown Pinot Noir fermented with indigenous yeasts found on the skins of the grapes. This helps highlight the fruit’s natural aromas and flavors. After fermentation, a portion of the wine ages in new oak barrels from the well-known firm of Francois Frères in Saint Romain. Bottling occurs without fining and filtering, again to frame the grapes’ natural traits.
The wine’s shimmering ruby color offers and raspberry and spice aromas. In the glass, strawberry, raspberry and light spicy flavors balance with fine freshness and soft, elegant tannins. The wine’s understated pleasure invites one sip after another. It is the antithesis of ponderous, over-oaked reds that can be difficult to enjoy.
As the video notes, the Côte Chalonnaise also boasts the appellation of Bouzeron, the only Bourgogne village where the whites must come from the Aligoté grape. Highly esteemed winegrower, Aubert de Villaine led the way in reclaiming Bouzeron’s vineyards with the superior “Aligoté Dorée” clones. He also spearheaded the area’s recognition as a full-fledged appellation. The 2022 Domaine A. & P. de Villaine Bouzeron is available nationwide for around $50 per bottle (plus shipping) on wine-searcher.com.
In Pennsylvania, try the 2021 Louis Jadot Bouzeron ($37.99, PLCB No. 39343). This wine unfolds citrus and toasty notes on the nose. On the palate, vibrant citrus and apple flavors balance with subtle oaky notes and creamy accents through a dry finish.
For more information on the Aligoté grape and its many fine producers throughout Bourgogne inclduing Domaine Chevrot, check out “Les Aligoteurs” on Instagram.
Côte de Beaune
Moving north again, the fly-over video comes to the Côte de Beaune, the southern portion of Bourgogne’s famed Côte D’Or. The Côte de Beaune is known for both red and white wines. The reds come from villages such as Maranges, Santenay, Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune and Aloxe-Corton. The subregion’s famed whites come from villages such as Saint-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault.
The prices for these famed wines have risen in recent years. But for fine introductions to the wines, try focusing on regional bottlings from top producers.
In general, the Bourgogne régionale sites have flatter topology and heavier top soils containing more clay than limestone. Consequently, there is less potential to achieve the concentration and length found in well-made grand cru and premier cru wines.
Nevertheless, conscientious producers lavish their Bourgogne régionale vines with the same dedicated hard work and attention to detail as in their more famous vineyards. Top producers take just as much professional pride in their less prestigious wines, and this creates outstanding buying opportunities for savvy drinkers.
For example, the 2023 Paul Pernot et ses Fils, Bourgogne Côte d’Or Chardonnay (Available nationwide in wine-searcher on average at $39; in Pennsylvania: $36.99, PLCB No. 37326) comes from three parcels north of the village toward Meursault. The wine is a yellow straw color with green glints and offers aromas of white flowers, citrus and light yeast notes. In the glass, apple, citrus and vanilla flavors balance with excellent freshness and pleasant creamy notes. The wine’s dry and elegant finish lingers pleasantly. It offers the kind of beautiful balance of concentrated fruit and freshness that makes Puligny-Montrachet white wines so enthralling.
Côte de Nuits
The video next covers the Côte de Nuits, home to the world’s most prestigious and sought after Pinot Noir-based reds from villages such as Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-Saint-Georges and Gevrey-Chambertin. Over the last 30 years, prices have, regrettably, become exorbitant. But value can still be found.
Try the 2021 Domaine du Clos de Poulettes, Côtes de Nuits-Villages “En Vierville” (Available via wine-searcher on average for $32; in Pennsylvania: $31.99, PLCB No. 35957), a wine hailing from the village of Corgoloin, which has a decidedly lower profile with international collectors. The vines for this wine at Domaine du Clos de Poulettes have the same eastern orientation, the same gentle slopes and similar limestone and clay geology found in more famous nearby villages. They also have comparable planting density of 10,000 vines per hectare, and similar low-harvest yields as those in the village of Nuits-Saint-Georges, Corgolion’s most famous neighbor.
This is significant, because it allows Domaine du Clos de Poulettes to make red wines of comparable quality but at less than half the price. This ruby-colored wine has aromas of ripe dark red fruit, cracked black pepper and light spiciness. On the palate, delicious, ripe fruit with medium concentration balances with superb freshness and elegant, silky tannins carrying through the delicate finish.
Northern Bourgogne
Finally, the ideo travels to northern Bourgogne, an area too often neglected by international consumers. Chablis is the region’s most famous white wine.
Try the excellent 2022 Domaine William Fevre Chablis (Available nationwide on wine-searcher on average at $41; in Pennsylvania:$41.99, PLCB No. 39977), an elegant and delightful wine made from Chardonnay grapes. It admirably captures the fresh citrus and smoky notes of classic Chablis.
Northern Bourgogne also offers plenty of underappreciated but excellent red wines made primarily from Pinot Noir grapes.
From two of the best organic and biodyanamic growers, try the outstanding 2022 Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Pinot Noir ($27 on wine-searcher.com) and the delicious 2022 Domaine d’Edouard, Bourgogne Cotes d’Auxerre Pinot Noir (around $34 on wine-searcher.com).
Also, the 2019 Gabin et Felix Richoux, Irancy (around $28 on wine-searcher.com) comes from two very dedicated young growers working with Pinot Noir grapes growing in sheltered, amphitheater-like vineyards.
Cheers!
Bravo, Dave, for this thorough tour of the Bourgogne!