Dining at La Ferme de la Ruchotte offers an experience unlike anything else you can encounter in France. Veteran chef, farmer and breeder, Frédéric Ménager, serves as the impresario who does things his own unique way on his organic farm. It is just a short seven mile trip from Bourgogne’s wine capital of Beaune.
After being away for far too long, my partner and I recently revisited La Ferme de la Ruchotte for lunch. Ménager and his team were on top of their game in showcasing their shared passions for superb local ingredients, outstanding cuisine, delicious Bourgogne wines, and good old-fashioned rock ‘n roll fun.
After years of demanding work, calculated risk-taking, and continual learning, Ménager’s reputation attracts French and international accolades. More importantly for Ménager, he has the latitude to work and welcome guests on his own terms. The story of how it all unfolded has deep roots in Bourgogne.
Working From the Bottom Up Starting in Southern Bourgogne:
Growing up in the 70’s and 80’s in Bourgogne’s southern Mâcon region, Frédéric Ménager dreamed of one day ripping guitar solos in a rock ‘n roll band. His family had more immediate ideas.
He began the long, hard quest of becoming a chef in France. After starting at the bottom of the kitchen brigade, he eventually worked in Paris followed by a stint with famed Chef Alain Chapel at his eponymously named restaurant. Chapel pioneered Nouvelle Cuisine featuring lighter, more delicate dishes with an emphasis on superb presentation. The relentless efforts paid off as the restaurant earned a prestigious Michelin-three star rating,
Ménager credits Chef Philippe Jousse, formerly of Restaurant Alain Chapel, with teaching hard work, commitment and discipline as essential values. Jousse also taught that chefs must show respect for guests.
“At Restaurant Alain Chapel, I learned that good food is not possible without good products,” Ménager recalls. “In the kitchen I learned camaraderie and the great techniques of French cooking. Philippe Jousse remains for me the greatest technician.”
Eventually Ménager became executive chef at Castel de Très Girard, a respected gastronomic restaurant in Morey-Saint-Denis, Bourgogne. He constantly searched for quality products to produce quality food. After starting to raise chickens as a hobby, a fellow poultry breeder introduced him to France’s “ancient races.”
“I raised, ate, and discovered something exceptional. The chickens just turned my life upside down!” Ménager says.
With an urge for creative independence, Ménager made a life-changing decision to leave the restaurant in 2002. He took a major risk by buying La Ferme de la Ruchotte, a farm where Ménager could chart his own unique path as a poultry breeder, farmer, and part-time chef.
He was unsure then of the economic viability of their “farm to plate” model. But Ménager envisioned other potential benefits, too.
Taking the Plunge To Independence and Organic Farming:
“We decided to reorient our lives to a more ethical ideal with more autonomy and independence,” Ménager recalls. “I try to show my clients and guests that self-sufficiency is possible. You no longer must depend on big agribusiness.”
Twenty-three years later Ménager is now a respected champion of the “farm to plate” model not only in Bourgogne, but, as his fame has grown, around France and internationally. At the same time, his passion for heavy metal, hard rock, popular music, and classical music flourishes stronger than ever.
The 12.5 acre La Ferme de la Ruchotte ( https://www.lafermedelaruchotte.com/ ) lies at the end of a serpentine road on a hilltop above the village of Bligny-sur-Ouche. The farm provides a free-range paradise for Ménager’s passion and specialty—chickens: coqs vierges, i.e., young birds, and poulardes, i.e., birds aged at least 120 days. They descend from colorful, ancient French lines such as the Gaulloise Dorée, Barbezieux, Le Mans, La Flèche, and Coucou de Rennes.
Ménager also raises rare, ancient breeds of pintade, i.e., guinea fowl, and ducks. For good measure, he tends an extensive potager garden with greens, carrots, leeks, radishes, celery, beets, peppers…. you name it.
“I am inspired every day by what the farm offers,” he says.
Everything thrives in the farm’s self-contained, organic environment. The bright green and white—Agriculture Biologique—sign at the entrance certifies it. Vegetables and fruits grow without synthetic chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides. Animals breed and mature without synthetic antibiotics and genetically modified methods. Ménager sees a critical rapport between a healthy, uncontaminated farm and high-quality poultry.
“Organic farming guarantees a healthy diet to the animals and a life in the best conditions,” he says. “The breeding time is also longer, and the slaughter is done according to very precise criteria. The product is healthier and therefore better for the consumer.”
“A chicken of quality must have firm and muscular flesh, be flavorful and properly fattened,” Ménager adds. “The skin must be fine and well oiled.”
Chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants such as Chef William Frachot of Restaurant Châpeau Rouge, a two-star Michelin in Dijon, covet Ménager’s tasty bounty. He also sells to more casual, but excellent culinary destinations such as Caves Madeleine in Beaune. Individual customers order poultry for holidays and special occasions. Ménager also welcomes guests by reservation for lunch.
Lunch at the Farm:
On a recent Wednesday, Fred and his team of Manon, Dominic and others greeted guests warmly into the cheerfully decorated, snug dining room featuring stone walls and a wood-beamed ceiling. Seating at communal tables sets a convivial tone.
Plenty of spoken French lingers in the dining room. But just down the communal table from us, a lively group of five men speak an unfamiliar language which turns out to be Danish. The groups includes chef Rolf Nordentoft and his friends from Copenhagen. This lively lot loved the rock music playing on Fred’s jukebox. They warmly embraced the nickname of “The Vikings.”
As the meal unfolds, inviting aromas fill the snug room while Fred works in the well-appointed professional kitchen just through an open doorway. A chalkboard near the fireplace and ancient, now retired wood-burning stove offer the fixed menu of the day.
The meal starts with a delicious oeuf meurette, a poached egg in a rich red wine reduction with lardon bacon bits. Then came tender white asparagus in a luscious hollandaise sauce garnered with fresh greens and flower petals from the farm.
Next came a ravioli stuffed with tasty, minced meat and bathed in a flavorful langoustine and garlic bouillon broth with chenopods, i.e., goosefoot greens. As an optional supplement, tender frogs’ legs, which were sauteed in butter and garlic and served piping hot in a cast iron skillet, took the delightful flavors up a notch.
For the main dish, Ménager serves roasted pintade au jus with radishes and mesclun greens. It delivers a delicious combination of succulent white meat and dark meat on the leg.
By controlling the production channel from birth of the animals through slaughter, Ménager maintains genetic diversity that is critical to quality of cuisine.
“Year after year I have observed and tasted my animals. We now know how to make a great chicken, but work remains,” he says. “Genetic diversity remains the most important thing in order to maintain a livestock with a strong capacity to adapt to its environment.”
Before dessert comes the plateau de fromages, a cheese plate that includes a creamy blue cheese and a firm, savory Morbier from the nearby Jura Mountains. Another local farm, though, La Ferme des Marronniers, provided the cheese of day with an incredibly runny, aromatic, and flavorful Époisses de Bourgogne fermier. Made completely by hand on the farm with unpasteurized cow’s milk, this runny, savory cheese with intense, pungent aromas and creamy, earthy flavors is delightful and delicious.
Vins des Copains—Friends’ Wines:
On the wine list, Ménager offers bottles made primarily from organically cultivated grapes. Well-known Bourgogne producers such Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Domaine Dujac jump out. But lesser known yet terrific producers also catch the eye.
For example, the 2023 Maxime Crotet, Mâcon-Péronne, an excellent white wine made from Chardonnay grapes grown organically in southern Bourgogne, offered fresh floral aromas and excellent freshness to pair with the first courses at lunch.
Then came the 2023 Pierre-Henri Rougeot, Bourgogne-Passetoutgrain “Les Vercherres” (Consult Winesearcher.com for current U.S. availability), a delicious, fruity red made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes grown near Meursault. Rougeot grows the old vines organically and uses whole grape clusters in fermentation and minimal sulfites before bottling.
The delightful wine made a superb pairing with the main course and cheeses. The Vikings approve heartily as they, too, enjoyed had a taste of the wine.
“Wine is especially important for us. It is in our genes and is an integral part of our Bourgogne culture,” Ménager says. “I love wines that tell a story about the history of Bourgogne terroir and the work of soils. Many of our wines come from growers who have become friends and who love what we do here. So, there is coherence in our collaboration.”
As the meal draws to a close, sated guests linger under La Ferme de la Ruchotte’s spell. All are happy savoring the pleasure of this convivial culinary moment.
Passion, Hard Work, and Humility:
“Being able to feed our guests with animals we saw born and to cook those animals as best we can, this is my best achievement,” Ménager says. “I love to live on the farm with the people who work here and share great moments of happiness like the birth of animals. Slaughtering the animals is not easy, you know, but I live with this as a sacrifice.”
“I like to make a kitchen that puts forward my products. As a cook, I am only a courier,” he adds. “The cook should fade in front of an animal that by his sacrifice will feed customers. Great products do not need much. The stars should be the product and the peasant.”
Rock on, Monsieur Fred!
Or as this song lyric from one Fred’s favorite groups, AC/DC, aptly says:
“Hey there, all you middlemen,
Throw away your fancy clothes.
And while you’re out there sittin’ on a fence,
Get off your ass and come down here.
‘Cause rock ‘n’ roll ain’t no riddle, man.
To me it makes good, good sense.
Rock ‘N’ Roll Ain’t Noise Pollution by AC/DC
Cheers!
Hi Dave, great to see you’ve headed back to Bourgogne. You must be doing at least decently. Same here for this old warhorse. I’ll be in Bourgogne this Spring and I’ll try to check out the restaurant. I’m traveling by bus, brain and BlaBlaCar rideshare, so it might be a bit tough to make it, but I’ll try. You certainly make it sound appealing.
Any other useful tips?
I’ll be at least 6 days in Beaune and perhaps more in the Bourgogne region. If weather cooperates I’d like to finally make it to the Jura. Every other time I’ve tried to do so spur of the moment, the weather hasn’t cooperated. But that is Jura. Most people say to stay in Arbois, but a few say Poligny or Chateau Chalon.
I’d like to do 4 or 5 days of winery visits, without car, and a decent+ to nice place to stay with good food.
As a wine person, I am persnickety. I quickly spotted a couple of typos or bad auto spell checks. William Frachot in Dijon and Caves Madeleine in Beaune. Very good restaurants with very different vibes, of course. I enjoyed them both in the past.
I look forward to your next European report!
Hi Robert,
Yes, it was a memorable trip. Looks like you have a fun trip ahead. Thanks for catching the typos!
As for La Ferme de la Ruchotte, your best bet would be to.take either a taxi.or Uber. The drivers know how to go there quickly!
I love going to Arby’s in the Jura. A traditional, La Minette, offers outstanding fondue and other local delicacies. There are several decent hotels within walking g distance of the restaurant. In Arbois’ main square, you have a confectionary shop by a Meilleur Overier de France. And Tissot has a conveniently placed tasting room on the square. Château Chalon is terrific its beauty, but it is virtually inaccessible even with a car!
In Beaune, I really like La Dillentante Bistro. Run by Lolo..Amazing wine list. La Ciboulette is always charming with reasonably priced good food and wine. Hope this helps! Let me know how it goes.
Cheers. Dave D.
Thanks Dave. I really would like to visit Chateau Chalon, but, as u say, it’s in the middle of nowhere. Do you think I could hitchhike there? Is there much traffic going there?
Arbois, tthat s!
Thanks Dave. I really would like to visit Chateau Chalon, but, as u say, it’s in the middle of nowhere. Do you think I could hitchhike there? Is there much traffic going there?
Don’t you love autocorrect 😱